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150m, 4 pitches. An ice line right of Gatekeeper (SMCJ 2014). There was more ice on the crag than in 2014, and the cornice was much smaller, but the turf wasn’t frozen in the back of grooves. Climb the short introductory tier as for Gatekeeper but head towards the right end of the lower band (20m). Climb a line of turf right of a short capped chimney and continue to gain the ice line, which forms down a defined fault (35m). Climb the fault to below an iced chimney (45m). Climb the chimney and trend slightly right to a rock band. Either climb a tricky V-groove or an easier ramp to its left (30m). Finish straight up, or wherever the cornice allows (20m).

Brian Davison, Andy Nisbet, Steve Perry. 14/Mar/2015.

* This newly updated climb is waiting to be checked by the crag moderator.

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Route of Interest

Blue Riband

Grade: V 5 ***
(Aonach Eagach - Sgorr nam Fiannaidh)