UKH

75m, 4 pitches. An exceptional winter line; first climbed in heavily verglassed conditions. Protection generally plentiful but complicated by iced cracks – large cams/chocks/hex’s and several long slings required.
1. The main chimney line was climbed direct through the roofs; strenuous but accommodating (superb, easy 8).
2. The cracked roof above the belay was climbed direct instead of the ladder dyke on the left (strenuous, hard 8).
3. Very strenuous exit up crack on right side of dyke (hard 8).
4. Awkward finish at the chockstone (7).

Nick Carter & Martin Moran 24/Nov/2008.

Ticklists

Winter VIIIs, Martin Moran Routes

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Route of Interest

Mongoose Direct (Winter)

Grade: VIII 8 ***
(Sgurr Mhic Choinnich)
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