UKH

14m.

Rockfax Description
14m. A short fingery wall leads to bulges (large cams) which are tackled leftwards then right using the nostril-like pockets.
The right-hand exit is the stretchy Ginger Whinger, E7 7a. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Start between Parsons' and Frankland's, climb to the curving break. Climb over this to the left, then using the nostrils climb to the top.

John Syrett, Al Manson. 01/May/1973.

Ticklists

Extreme Rock, The 3 star way to yorkshire gritstone's heaven, Peak Rock/11/Gritstone in the Seventies., Ultimate E3 ticklist, The Five Best E3 Routes in the UK?, The 30 best E3 routes in the UK?, The All New 3 Star Way to Yorkshire Gritstone Heaven., Classic Lobs, Rockfax Top 50 - Northern England, 3* Extreme Northern Trad

Feedback

User Date Notes
alaan 3 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Getting the first of the pockets is reachy, I thought. I'm 5'8" (I think...) and reached it only with a good gurn. The moves right were totally unexpected (having not read the description) and where I failed. A fun fall though, with a trusty (and preferably heavy) belayer. Certainly a much easier proposition than the other big E3's...
βeta?
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βeta: Getting the first of the pockets is reachy, I thought. I'm 5'8" (I think...) and reached it only with a good gurn. The moves right were totally unexpected (having not read the description) and where I failed. A fun fall though, with a trusty (and preferably heavy) belayer. Certainly a much easier proposition than the other big E3's...
Dave Musgrove 17 Mar, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: I fell off it twice in the 1970s before I finally cracked it. I was climbing quite well at the time and shouldn't have fallen off 5c moves - at least not that far above the gear. I therefore deduced it must be 6a - I still think so. At least its a pretty safe, if exhilarating, fall.
 
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βeta: I fell off it twice in the 1970s before I finally cracked it. I was climbing quite well at the time and shouldn't have fallen off 5c moves - at least not that far above the gear. I therefore deduced it must be 6a - I still think so. At least its a pretty safe, if exhilarating, fall.
Chris Craggs 14 Mar, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Oddly when I did it I thought it was rounded, reachy and a bit scary - so when I wrote the description I based it on that experience! CC
βeta?
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βeta: Oddly when I did it I thought it was rounded, reachy and a bit scary - so when I wrote the description I based it on that experience! CC
Fiend 14 Mar, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: This (E3 5c) is the correct grade, although it is neither reachy, nor fluttery, nor rounded! Just pull on the good holds. However, it is very nice, finely positioned, and well worthwhile.
βeta?
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βeta: This (E3 5c) is the correct grade, although it is neither reachy, nor fluttery, nor rounded! Just pull on the good holds. However, it is very nice, finely positioned, and well worthwhile.
Andy Reeve 22 Feb, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: I didn't think this was hard for the grade at all. Difficult to judge as it was a few years ago but it was my first proper route at the grade. Much easier than the other two big almscliffe E3s!
βeta?
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βeta: I didn't think this was hard for the grade at all. Difficult to judge as it was a few years ago but it was my first proper route at the grade. Much easier than the other two big almscliffe E3s!
alaan 17 Feb, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Definately hard for the grade- failed to lead this, took a fall from the top pocket. Gutted.
βeta?
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βeta: Definately hard for the grade- failed to lead this, took a fall from the top pocket. Gutted.

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High 6a
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Votes cast 58
Votes cast 53
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Dogged
Ground Up
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest

Time Out

Grade: E3 6a ***
(Round Crag)
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