65m. A great horizontal outing. Start up Z Climb and follow the horizontal line of cracks and breaks. Stances are available in Parson's Chimney, on the Pulpit, and either in Long Chimney, or (uncomfortably) on the pedestal of Great Western. Mega-classic! © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Enjoyable route covering most of the North West Face. Start as for Z Climb, follow the rightwards rising crack onto Central Climb. Climb down Central Climb to a triangular niche and then hand traverse right to belay on the ledge of Parson's Chimney. From the belay move up the right wall of Parson's Chimney and traverse the high break right beneath the overhang of Big Greeny. Climb onto Frankland's Green Crack before a long stride from small but positive footholds leads onto The Pulpit. Belay. It is possible to keep going up Frankland's and to take a belay at the top of Long Chimney beneath the capping block instead of the long step onto The Pulpit. Make a long step (reminiscent of Piggot's Stride) from the top of The Pulpit to join Long Chimney. Climb this to beneath the capping block then make the crux traverse across the top of Wall of Horrors to take a cramped belay on the Pinnacle of Great Western. Reverse this to Crack of Doom and finish up this. Smoke a pipe and give yourself a pat on the back! 4 pitches: 5a,5b,5b,5a.
Arthur Dolphin, John Cook, John Ball. 14/May/1944.
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