UKH

150m, 5 pitches.

Rockfax Description
145m. An excellent route - pitches 1 to 3 are superb! The belays are fixed but there's nothing on the pitches so take a full rack, including some small wires. The route is accessed by scrambling up grass and rock from the gully where the Frison-Roche starts.
1) 6a+, 25m. Climb the wide crack using some good footholds which seem to appear whenever there isn't much to grab!
2) 6b, 35m. THE pitch. Depending on your relative abilities, you'll want to sandbag your mate into either seconding or leading this one. The climbing is sustained and stunning and requires the full repertoire of techniques.
3) 6a+, 25m. From the belay, make some strenuous layback moves to gain easier ground and then a terrace. The belay is to the left and is initially hard to spot. Don't walk to the wall at the back of the terrace whilst looking for the belay as there is loose rock which can be easily knocked down. It is advised to cross the terrace and then belay again before the next pitch so as to avoid your second dislodging anything onto climbers below.
4) 6a, 25m. Climb the wall above the left end of the terrace, drifting gradually left then back rightwards.
5) 5c, 35m. Easier climbing up the wall on some occasionally loose rock. Belay at the viewing platform, probably with an adoring audience of tourists! © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The corner on the right side of the clearly visible black streaks. According to Piola guide book start by scrambling up next to Voie Frichon-Roche, the route starts on the same level with the first belay of Frichon-Roche, but some 10 meters to the left. After the first three pitches (the corner), walk left for a few meters on the upper ledge and belay below a crumbly looking ramp (two bolts for the belay). The route finishes up the loose ramp and cracks in two pitches, a nicer alternative would be to finish on the last pitch of Frichon-Roche.

Feedback

User Date Notes
mic.snow 24 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Take care with the layback start of P3, you're just above the ledge, it's tricky to get protection in and it's easy to slip and deck.
Show beta
βeta: Take care with the layback start of P3, you're just above the ledge, it's tricky to get protection in and it's easy to slip and deck.
Gemmazrobo 3 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: In situ number 3 on pitch 1. Useful and we didn’t have one
Show beta
βeta: In situ number 3 on pitch 1. Useful and we didn’t have one
John McKenna - Rockfax 20 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Take large cams for first pitch to avoid huge runouts. >BD size 4 useful. Small wires suggested in guide were not useful on first pitch (experience only based on first pitch)
Show beta
βeta: Take large cams for first pitch to avoid huge runouts. >BD size 4 useful. Small wires suggested in guide were not useful on first pitch (experience only based on first pitch)

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Voting
High ED1
Mid ED1
Low ED1
High TD+
Mid TD+
Low TD+
High TD
Mid TD
Low TD
Votes cast 12
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
Votes cast 7
Votes cast 13
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest

NW Ridge

Grade: TD+ ***
(Charmoz Grepon)
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