145m. An excellent route - pitches 1 to 3 are superb! The belays are fixed but there's nothing on the pitches so take a full rack, including some small wires. The route is accessed by scrambling up grass and rock from the gully where the Frison-Roche starts.1) 6a+, 25m. Climb the wide crack using some good footholds which seem to appear whenever there isn't much to grab!2) 6b, 35m. THE pitch. Depending on your relative abilities, you'll want to sandbag your mate into either seconding or leading this one. The climbing is sustained and stunning and requires the full repertoire of techniques. 3) 6a+, 25m. From the belay, make some strenuous layback moves to gain easier ground and then a terrace. The belay is to the left and is initially hard to spot. Don't walk to the wall at the back of the terrace whilst looking for the belay as there is loose rock which can be easily knocked down. It is advised to cross the terrace and then belay again before the next pitch so as to avoid your second dislodging anything onto climbers below.4) 6a, 25m. Climb the wall above the left end of the terrace, drifting gradually left then back rightwards. 5) 5c, 35m. Easier climbing up the wall on some occasionally loose rock. Belay at the viewing platform, probably with an adoring audience of tourists! © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The corner on the right side of the clearly visible black streaks. According to Piola guide book start by scrambling up next to Voie Frichon-Roche, the route starts on the same level with the first belay of Frichon-Roche, but some 10 meters to the left. After the first three pitches (the corner), walk left for a few meters on the upper ledge and belay below a crumbly looking ramp (two bolts for the belay). The route finishes up the loose ramp and cracks in two pitches, a nicer alternative would be to finish on the last pitch of Frichon-Roche.
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