210m, 11 pitches.

Rockfax Description
II, 210m. A brilliant route, in the full glare of the sun all day and featuring some stiff climbing up the centre of the face.

1) 6a+, 35m. Follow the corner to a slab that is climbed to a belay below the roof on the right.
3) 6b+, 25m. Traverse left under the roof (bolts) until almost out from underneath it, then climb through it going diagonally up and left. Once past the roof, move a metre to the right to reach the belay. A great little pitch but no pushover.
4) 6b, 35m. Climb the slab above by initially drifting up and left before coming back after 15m and traversing rightwards until back above the previous belay, on a ledge shared with the Rébuffat-Baquet.
5) 6c+, 15m. Climb the crack above with some difficulty to a belay beneath a steep groove bypassing the overhang above it on the left. This pitch is slightly easier if you have thin fingers which can fit in the crack; those with fat digits might want to send their mate up on the lead!
6) 6c+, 30m. Follow the groove awkwardly until you find yourself at the top left end of the overhang. Continue up the corner on the right which steepens but is easier than it looks.
7) 5c, 30m. A comparative rest after the last two pitches! Climb the crack system, drifting slightly left until under a third overhang on a good ledge.
8) 6a+, 25m. The steep crack above and left of the belay is, thankfully, easier than it appears from below. Climb it and traverse right once through the overhang to a spectacularly situated belay.
9) 7a/A0 (or 7b), 30m. Although it is possible to free the move straight off the belay, it is utterly desperate and virtually everyone pulls on the bolt, whether they admit it or not! The flared groove above is hard and delicate. It eases near the top and finishes on a good ledge.
10) 5c, 25m. Follow the corner and exit left, following crack systems to a big sloping ledge.
11) 5b, 20m. A short scramble up the ridge leads to the belay below the final pitch of the Rébuffat-Baquet
12) 6b+, 25m. The final pitch of the Rébuffat-Baquet. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Hard move into a burly E4 crack on the crux pitch. 6a obligatory.


Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif , Euro Alpine Rock


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High ED2
Mid ED2
Low ED2
High ED1
Mid ED1
Low ED1
High TD+
Mid TD+
Low TD+
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 1
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Police des Glaciers

Grade: ED1 6c+ ***
(Mont Blanc du Tacul)

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