UKH

500m.

Rockfax Description
IV, 450m, 4 - 5 hours. Another classic and an ideal first North Face, the Migot provides a feel of seriousness without any particularly difficult climbing.
1) Cross the bergschrund and climb mixed gullies (may be dry in late season) through the rock band, to reach the crest of the north ridge. If conditions are poor there is another line further right to get through the rock band, although there is no guarantee that this will be any better than the normal start!
2) Follow the snow ridge as close as possible to the crest to stay safe from potential serac fall.
3) Climb through mixed ground just to the right of the serac. The exact line will depend on conditions. Assuming there is good ice, climb the gully closest to the crest, or the one just to the left to reach the upper snowfield.
4) Follow the snowfield (50 degrees and exposed) in a stunning position to join the Forbes Arête just below the summit. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The RockFax description for the descent is a little misleading. From the summit descend onto the ridge and follow it around a leftward turn. From here it is 20m to a sudden steepening in the ridge and the couloir described above. Many people have taken epic-inducing lines down couloirs reached sooner than this one from turning too soon.

Ticklists

Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif , Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif , ROCKFAX Chamonix: Top 50 , Big Routes , Alpine Dreamz , Alpine Progression , Road to the Walker Spur , A mix of routes to the summits of great Peaks in the Alps via standard'ish routes

Feedback

User Date Notes
IainMunro 19 Jun Show βeta
βeta: Upper snowfield now brittle ice covered by a layer of slush. Tenuous unprotected climbing. Middle section had ice where needed but it’s days are numbered for this season. Descent is in very poor condition just now and was the crux of the day …
Show beta
βeta: Upper snowfield now brittle ice covered by a layer of slush. Tenuous unprotected climbing. Middle section had ice where needed but it’s days are numbered for this season. Descent is in very poor condition just now and was the crux of the day …
Gwinn512 31 May Show βeta
βeta: Abseils are not easy to find and varying quality. Bring extra cord.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Abseils are not easy to find and varying quality. Bring extra cord.
Webster 21 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: the right hand start is most likely to be the best option these days it seems, it would go completely dry assuming the 'dirt' was properly frozen. in descent you can continue down the W couloir all the way to the glacier. we only needed 2x25m absails which were very easy to find. there is no need to head right anywhere!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: the right hand start is most likely to be the best option these days it seems, it would go completely dry assuming the 'dirt' was properly frozen. in descent you can continue down the W couloir all the way to the glacier. we only needed 2x25m absails which were very easy to find. there is no need to head right anywhere!

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Voting
High D
Mid D
Low D
High D-
Mid D-
Low D-
High AD+
Mid AD+
Low AD+
Votes cast 15
High 4
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Low 4
High 3
Mid 3
Low 3
High 2
Mid 2
Low 2
Votes cast 2
Votes cast 19
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Voie Abert

Grade: D- 6a ***
(Lames Fontaine)

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