UKH

500m.

Rockfax Description
IV, 450m, 4 - 5 hours. Another classic and an ideal first north face, the Migot provides a feel of seriousness without any particularly difficult climbing.
Approach - When the Glacier du Tour is well filled in, it should be possible to cross it more or less directly to reach the foot of the route. When heavily crevassed, either follow the Forbes Arête approach to the rocks at Pte. 3238m and then head straight for the route from here (move quickly under the seracs). Alternatively, cross the glacier lower down in the direction of the Col du Passon and then climb to the routes past the Aiguille du Passon.
1) Cross the bergschrund and climb mixed gullies (may be dry in late season) through the rock band, to reach the crest of the north ridge. If conditions are poor there is another line further right to get through the rock band, although there is no guarantee that this will be any better than the normal start!
2) Follow the snow ridge as close as possible to the crest to stay safe from potential serac fall.
3) Climb through mixed ground just to the right of the serac. The exact line will depend on conditions. Assuming there is good ice, climb the gully closest to the crest, or the one just to the left to reach the upper snowfield.
4) Follow the snowfield (50 degrees and exposed) in a stunning position to join the Forbes Arête just below the summit.
Descent - From the summit, descend the southwest ridge for 20m to reach the top of a wide 40-45 degree snow couloir dropping down on the right. Descend this, ideally on foot but abseiling from spikes if conditions are bad, sticking to the right (when looking down) as far as possible until you reach a saddle. The couloir is perched above a cliff band so take care and keep concentrating all the way down. From the saddle, continue down the vague ridge crest to reach the top of an abseil line down through a cliff band. There are numerous anchors dotted around but the ones marked on the © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The RockFax description for the descent is a little misleading. From the summit descend onto the ridge and follow it around a leftward turn. From here it is 20m to a sudden steepening in the ridge and the couloir described above. Many people have taken epic-inducing lines down couloirs reached sooner than this one from turning too soon.

Ticklists

Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif, Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif, ROCKFAX Chamonix: Top 50, Big Routes, Alpine Dreamz, Alpine Progression

Feedback

User Date Notes
Webster 21 Jul Show βeta
βeta: the right hand start is most likely to be the best option these days it seems, it would go completely dry assuming the 'dirt' was properly frozen. in descent you can continue down the W couloir all the way to the glacier. we only needed 2x25m absails which were very easy to find. there is no need to head right anywhere!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: the right hand start is most likely to be the best option these days it seems, it would go completely dry assuming the 'dirt' was properly frozen. in descent you can continue down the W couloir all the way to the glacier. we only needed 2x25m absails which were very easy to find. there is no need to head right anywhere!

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Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
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Followed
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Route of Interest

Brenva Spur (Gussfeldt Start)

Grade: D- 3 ***
(Mont Blanc)
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