IV, 450m, 4 - 5 hours. Another classic and an ideal first north face, the Migot provides a feel of seriousness without any particularly difficult climbing.Approach - When the Glacier du Tour is well filled in, it should be possible to cross it more or less directly to reach the foot of the route. When heavily crevassed, either follow the Forbes Arête approach to the rocks at Pte. 3238m and then head straight for the route from here (move quickly under the seracs). Alternatively, cross the glacier lower down in the direction of the Col du Passon and then climb to the routes past the Aiguille du Passon. 1) Cross the bergschrund and climb mixed gullies (may be dry in late season) through the rock band, to reach the crest of the north ridge. If conditions are poor there is another line further right to get through the rock band, although there is no guarantee that this will be any better than the normal start!2) Follow the snow ridge as close as possible to the crest to stay safe from potential serac fall. 3) Climb through mixed ground just to the right of the serac. The exact line will depend on conditions. Assuming there is good ice, climb the gully closest to the crest, or the one just to the left to reach the upper snowfield.4) Follow the snowfield (50 degrees and exposed) in a stunning position to join the Forbes Arête just below the summit.Descent - From the summit, descend the southwest ridge for 20m to reach the top of a wide 40-45 degree snow couloir dropping down on the right. Descend this, ideally on foot but abseiling from spikes if conditions are bad, sticking to the right (when looking down) as far as possible until you reach a saddle. The couloir is perched above a cliff band so take care and keep concentrating all the way down. From the saddle, continue down the vague ridge crest to reach the top of an abseil line down through a cliff band. There are numerous anchors dotted around but the ones marked on the © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The RockFax description for the descent is a little misleading. From the summit descend onto the ridge and follow it around a leftward turn. From here it is 20m to a sudden steepening in the ridge and the couloir described above. Many people have taken epic-inducing lines down couloirs reached sooner than this one from turning too soon.
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