UKH

Rockfax Description
III, 3 - 5 hours. One of the best routes of this grade in the Alps, the Forbes has everything you look for in an alpine adventure - excellent climbing, stunning views and a real high mountain feel. The route is often underestimated though, so start early and leave plenty of time for the descent. The slope of La Bosse is steep and when icy can require two axes as well as proper crampons. It isn't unusual to place screws on this section in icy conditions.
1) Turn the first small summit on the south side of the ridge before returning to the north side and traversing across snow slopes to another summit.
2) 4b. Go around the second summit on the south side then come back to the ridge crest at a small col. Climb a short slab (4b) on the north side to reach a small pinnacle. This can be avoided on the north side.
3) Descend a chimney from top of the pinnacle and then make an exposed traverse across the North Face to rejoin the ridge.
4) Follow the ridge crest, turning anything tricky on the north side, to reach a final rocky scramble to the summit. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Classic ridge traverse.

From the Albert Premier, cross the Glacier du Tour in about 2 hours. Climb up the snow slope (50-60 degrees) to make way over bergshrund. Up a bit and then climb the snowy ridge on right to the "Bosse" then up towards the skyline ridge (1.5-2 hours from base of climb). Follow the ridge to the summit. One 6-8 meter section of horizontal ice traversing towards the latter stages of the ridge. About 3-5 hours on the ridge. Descend via the NW Ridge route

Paul Sisley with Maurice and Joseph Crettez 10/Aug/1899.

Ticklists

Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif , Top quality Alps under 4000m , ROCKFAX Chamonix: Top 50 , Big Routes , Alpine Dreamz , Alpine Progression , Alps 22

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User Date Notes
mikekekarney85 4 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Bad snow conditions, lots of hard ice. Screws needed for approach and decent. Decent is more like 100m from summit, ignore the 20m quoted in the guide book.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Bad snow conditions, lots of hard ice. Screws needed for approach and decent. Decent is more like 100m from summit, ignore the 20m quoted in the guide book.

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Route of Interest
Midi-Plan Traverse

Grade: AD ***
(Aiguille du Plan)

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