UKH

Rockfax Description
III, 200m, 2 - 3 hours. A great route with stunning exposure but make sure you catch it in the right conditions.

1) From the Salle à Manger, follow the snow ridge on, or just below, the crest all the way to Point 3933m. The exact route taken will depend on conditions but regardless of the snow quality, be aware of potential cornices, particularly when crossing the photogenic serac.
2) Make a 30m abseil from a fixed anchor down to a wide shoulder, or downclimb a 50 degree snow slope.
3) Follow the ridge crest to the initial rocky section and go round it on the right-hand side of the ridge. Rejoin the crest and climb to the foot of the final summit buttress.
4) 4a. Start up the buttress steeply at first, just to the right of the ridge crest before climbing a ramp which leads leftwards into the centre of the face. Come back left to a steep gully which leads (via some pretty chossy and bold-feeling climbing, 4a ) to the summit ridge, just below the top itself. This section is now equipped for abseil with belays that can also be used on the way up too if needed. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The normal route and often traversed prior to an ascent of Dent du Geant, which can easily be include on the return journey. The ridge is an elegant, exposed, corniced snow crest and is extremely popular. 4-5hr from hut.

Fontaine, Ravanel + Simms 17/Jul/1900.

Ticklists

Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif , Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif , ROCKFAX Chamonix: Top 50 , Big Routes , Alpine Progression

Feedback

User Date Notes
Tall Oak 22 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Considering my alpine abilities were zilch 1 week before I say thanks to Peter for letting me join. Very fortunate with the weather and the sunrise and low level of cloud were beyond my wildest dreams. The ridges were narrow and the drops either side meant a steady mind was needed to stop the mind wandering about the drops either side. Amazing to have the contrast of Torino and the gravel to one side (say 1500m drop) and the glacier towards France on the other. An amazing experience.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Considering my alpine abilities were zilch 1 week before I say thanks to Peter for letting me join. Very fortunate with the weather and the sunrise and low level of cloud were beyond my wildest dreams. The ridges were narrow and the drops either side meant a steady mind was needed to stop the mind wandering about the drops either side. Amazing to have the contrast of Torino and the gravel to one side (say 1500m drop) and the glacier towards France on the other. An amazing experience.
mcawle 19 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Snow slope in the middle was icy and fixed rope protecting it is currently severed lower down. Steve wisely left some slings and draws to haul on for the return and led us back up; it would have been a scary lead with a single walking axe and nothing to pull on. Would advise two axes and 3-4 screws to protect it or else some extra slings/alpine draws to leave in situ and then retrieve on return.
Show beta
βeta: Snow slope in the middle was icy and fixed rope protecting it is currently severed lower down. Steve wisely left some slings and draws to haul on for the return and led us back up; it would have been a scary lead with a single walking axe and nothing to pull on. Would advise two axes and 3-4 screws to protect it or else some extra slings/alpine draws to leave in situ and then retrieve on return.
Webster 9 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: there are now 5 or 6 well spaced bolts (with rather frayed fixed rope) protecting the \'exposed downclimb or absail\' half way along the ridge. the final headwall is also now bolted and equipped for 3x20m absails on good 2 bolt anchors for descent.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: there are now 5 or 6 well spaced bolts (with rather frayed fixed rope) protecting the 'exposed downclimb or absail' half way along the ridge. the final headwall is also now bolted and equipped for 3x20m absails on good 2 bolt anchors for descent.

Logged Ascents

178 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Aiguille de Rochefort

Not all climbs at crag may appear in this book 153 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High AD+
Mid AD+
Low AD+
High AD
Mid AD
Low AD
High AD-
Mid AD-
Low AD-
Votes cast 11
High 3
Mid 3
Low 3
High 2
Mid 2
Low 2
High 1
Mid 1
Low 1
Votes cast 12
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Southeast Ridge

Grade: AD 4c ***
(Aiguilles Rouges)

Loading Notifications...