III, 200m, 2 - 3 hours. A great route with stunning exposure but make sure you catch it in the right conditions.
1) From the Salle à Manger, follow the snow ridge on, or just below, the crest all the way to Point 3933m. The exact route taken will depend on conditions but regardless of the snow quality, be aware of potential cornices, particularly when crossing the photogenic serac.
2) Make a 30m abseil from a fixed anchor down to a wide shoulder, or downclimb a 50 degree snow slope.
3) Follow the ridge crest to the initial rocky section and go round it on the right-hand side of the ridge. Rejoin the crest and climb to the foot of the final summit buttress.
4) 4a. Start up the buttress steeply at first, just to the right of the ridge crest before climbing a ramp which leads leftwards into the centre of the face. Come back left to a steep gully which leads (via some pretty chossy and bold-feeling climbing, 4a ) to the summit ridge, just below the top itself. This section is now equipped for abseil with belays that can also be used on the way up too if needed. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The normal route and often traversed prior to an ascent of Dent du Geant, which can easily be include on the return journey. The ridge is an elegant, exposed, corniced snow crest and is extremely popular. 4-5hr from hut.
Fontaine, Ravanel + Simms 17/Jul/1900.
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