Rockfax Description
III, 1350m, 1 day. From the Refuge d'Argentière, descend back onto the glacier and walk down the right bank until below and right of the Glacier du Chardonnet.
1) Climb snow slopes, or moraine and scree depending on conditions, to reach the glacier itself.
2) Follow the glacier to reach a 100m long couloir coming down from the northwest ridge.
3) Climb this (low-angled mixed ground) to reach the ridge.
4) Follow the ridge easily on snow and over the odd short rock step to reach the summit. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The original route up the peak. PD+/AD-.
Ticklists
Rosie's Broken Alpine Dreaming , Alpine Progression , BMC - Easier Classics in the Mont Blanc Range , Cham Sep 24
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Trois Monts Route
Grade: PD+ ***
(Mont Blanc)