UKH

270m.

Rockfax Description
II, 310m. A classic granite climb and one of the first of its genre in the basin. Approach either via snow fields or via the gully above the start of Versant Satanique if dry.
1) 5a, 50m. Climb a line of corners up the steep wall to the left of the gully. Climb left to a large detached flake and climb round it on the right to a belay on a spike.
2) 5a, 45m. Continue up to the top of the spur and follow this to the large chimney fault. Start up this to a belay, passing difficulties on the left.
3) 5b, 45m. Step left from the belay to pass a small roof and continue up the chimney.
4) 5c, 40m. Climb the steepening chimney using the cracks on the left to help. Follow this to a belay on a ledge on the shoulder.
5) 6a, 55m. Continue up the shoulder easily to the bottom of a red corner (option to belay here). Climb the corner and easier ground above to a belay.
6) 5a, 25m. Go round the wall on the right and follow the easiest ground to the top of the first tower. From here descend 10m to get to the base of the next tower.
7) 6a, 45m. Climb steep grooves above the belay passing a small roof and several pitons. This is steep and is common for a bit of 'french free' to be used. Follow further grooves to the top of the second tower. Descend 10m to get to the next pitch.
8) 4c. 25m. Climb down and pass over a block to a corner that is climbed to a belay above.
9) 4c. 45m. Pass along the ridge crest and then climb the steep wall on good flakes.
10) 6a. 30m. Climb a strenuous corner that leads to a bold slab. Follow this to the top of the tower.
Descent - Abseil back down the route (can be slicker to abseil Versant Satanique from the junction). © Rockfax

Robert Mazars, Garston Rebuffat, Paul ette de Cl?ry, Hubert Cretton 29/Jul/1966.

Ticklists

Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif , Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif , Great Alpine routes not in Chamonix Rockfax 1st Ed. , Road to the Walker Spur

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User Date Notes
iainJ 13 Jul Show βeta
βeta: New glue in ab bolts with rings have been installed from about p6 onwards - rock dust still present at time of writing. 60m ropes needed ideally to make full use of them.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: New glue in ab bolts with rings have been installed from about p6 onwards - rock dust still present at time of writing. 60m ropes needed ideally to make full use of them.
Tyler 7 Aug, 2012 Show βeta
βeta: Really sustained even using the allowed aid, chimney pitches felt solid E1 and a couple of pitches above deserved E2 at least. The pull over onto the summit arête will live long in the memory!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Really sustained even using the allowed aid, chimney pitches felt solid E1 and a couple of pitches above deserved E2 at least. The pull over onto the summit arête will live long in the memory!

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High TD
Mid TD
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High TD-
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High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
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High 5c
Mid 5c
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Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
La Balade des Gens Heureux

Grade: TD 6a+ ***
(Les Perrons de Vallorcine)

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