UKC

Climbs 6
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 2655m a.s.l
Faces all

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7am and heading into Gerlachovsky Stit, High Tatras © Babika

Crag features

The highest mountain in Slovakia, in fact the whole of the High Tatras in Poland and Slovakia at 2654m summit. Reached by a 2-3 hour walk from Sliesky Dom hotel, first along good waymarked path, then after lake walking/scrambling up steeper scree and boulders off path.

The start of the routes is quite difficult to locate but the normal route (also the descent) is clear with chains for the last 50m descent before the scree. Find this and work northwards around the mountain base. 

The routes ascend around 550m in height with some via ferrata on the normal/descent route but may be considerably longer if you are off route and weaving backwards and forwards across the crag. Moving together is possible on the easier sections but bear in mind the consequences of a slip when you are most likely to be the sole party on the mountain even in good weather and high season.

Rock is granite and may be loose in places but totally solid in others. There are virtually no pegs on the routes - take a normal uk trad rack and loads of slings, these are the most useful.

Water is available at the base of the crag in all but the driest conditions so no need to lug too many litres in.

Approach notes

You are not allowed to climb at all on Gerlachovský štít, even the descent route without being a UIAA affiliated club member. This is easy to obtain from any British Club or BMC membership. We weren't asked to produce cards but sign in the routes book at Sliesky Dom with an estimated time of return to avoid an unwanted Mountain Rescue call out!

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