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Tidal in Zawn Duel, non-tidal on the W face of Carn Gloose, but beware swells on Astral Stroll!

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

A restriction is in place for nesting choughs covering Zawn Duel only.
88m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Astounding positions and superb climbing combine to give one of the region's great climbs. The route follows a severely overhung diagonal line across the cliff, starting at sea level on the tip of the headland. The climbing is serious for leader and second and the third pitch can feel insecure in anything but dry conditions. Calm seas are essential if the route is attempted at high tide. Start on a sea-level ledge at the tip of the headland.

1) 4b, 20m. Climb around the headland onto the west face just above the high-tide mark. Move up a small slab before traversing right below a little overhang and up again to a stance on a slab at the base of a left-leaning corner.
1a) 4c, 20m. An alternative first pitch, if the tide is very high, is to climb up and then traverse a steep pocketed wall right to a good ledge on the edge of the west face, before traversing down and right to the stance.
2) 5b, 10m. Move right and down via a difficult move (back rope for second) and traverse right, either high or low, to a stance at a wide crack in the corner.
2a) 5b, 20m. An alternative high-level version is possible for conditions when the sea is a bit choppy.
3) 5b, 20m. A wild pitch. Move up to the roof and then down slightly before heading out across the steep wall and up to regain the roof. Continue right beneath the roof, passing a protruding fin of rock, to gain a steep hanging slab. Cross this, and a small corner, before making a steep move up to better holds, small spike. Move right and swing down to a stance on a projecting foot ledge.
4) 5a, 18m. Pull through the small overhang to the base of the large right-trending corner and move out right and up onto the wall to a small ledge. Finish up the wall. Belay well back. A scramble up the cracks on the left regains the ridge. © Rockfax

FA. R.Edwards, C.Bryan 31/Mar/1980.

Ticklists

Extreme Rock , Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice , Kernow , West Country Climbs , MIA logbook must haves! , Rockfax West Country top 50 , Ultimate E1 ticklist , UK Lonely Leads , The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist , Tom Ripley's Top 5 E1 Climbs , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Paul's pre-Kendal Kernow ticklist , High Quality Adventure routes , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , CUC Climbing Club, Part 2: Hidden Gems, Adventures & Harder Offerings , Best Mid Grade Sea Cliff Traverses , BMG Application Rock (Unofficial) , Extreme Girdle , Pathway to Triple 8 , Definitive *** West Cornwall , Target Routes 2019/2020 , Big Routes 2020 , I want a Pasty! , 2021 Ticklist , Classic Rock Climbs in Southern England by Bill Birkett , South West in Extremis , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , E1-E3 adventure routes: seacliffs, outcrops just not mountains. , E1's , Routes for MCI

Feedback

User Date Notes
LakesWinter 30 Jul, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Red cam definitely not anywhere in the route. There is a stuck yellow totem, that's all.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Red cam definitely not anywhere in the route. There is a stuck yellow totem, that's all.
Longsufferingropeholder 19 Jul, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: If anyone finds a red cam please give me a shout. Not sure where/how we lost it but definintely had it on P1
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: If anyone finds a red cam please give me a shout. Not sure where/how we lost it but definintely had it on P1
Jim blackford 2 May, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: first pitch as described in rockfax is 4c imo since the rockfall and a little bold - perhaps harder than high tide variation but nothing too bad
βeta?
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βeta: first pitch as described in rockfax is 4c imo since the rockfall and a little bold - perhaps harder than high tide variation but nothing too bad
mattnuttall 24 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Yes... we went relatively low all the way into the belay below the wild overhang pitch. Nothing above 5a across there
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Yes... we went relatively low all the way into the belay below the wild overhang pitch. Nothing above 5a across there
Chimnastics 9 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Having just climbed this today, I don't think there is any rockfall that has affected the route recently. We climbed lower than the low tide start (before getting back on route), and there were no issues.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Having just climbed this today, I don't think there is any rockfall that has affected the route recently. We climbed lower than the low tide start (before getting back on route), and there were no issues.
Bruise Apprentice 27 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Apparently there was rockfall in 2016 that has changed the nature of the original P1 low-tide traverse line. Best to stick to the high tide traverse line.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Apparently there was rockfall in 2016 that has changed the nature of the original P1 low-tide traverse line. Best to stick to the high tide traverse line.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Zawn Duel and Carn Gloose Area

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 78
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 74
Votes cast 67
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
DWS
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Repeated
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Suicide Wall

Grade: E1 5c ***
(Bosigran)

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