Restricted Access

One of the more convenient and quick-drying crags in the area. Good sport climbing as well as a reasonable selection of trad routes. The popular routes tend to be polished, especially the starts of those on the Lower Lift.

Whitebeams (a rare species of tree) grow on the crag and are an important feature of the SSSI. Please do not cut any trees on or around the crag without gaining permision first as this could result in access issues in future. If you want to carry out cleaning which involves trees, please contact the BMC access team first through access@thebmc.co.uk.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 February to 15 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

There is a tawny owl nesting on "It's Over for Jehovah". Avoide all routes between "Head full of hedda" and "What you think"

Climb the arete on its right-hand side.

Ticklists

CoT Wye Valley Mileage #Levelup expansion pack , Bristol area road to 7b , Road to f7c - Wye Valley , 7As with stars near Bristol

Feedback

User Date Notes
Will B.G 17 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Didn’t need undercling, probably easier to not use …
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Didn’t need undercling, probably easier to not use …
Oogachooga 1 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Snapped hold doesnt make a difference IMO. After all, it's all on the arête at that point of the route. Be interest to hear what others think.
Show beta
βeta: Snapped hold doesnt make a difference IMO. After all, it's all on the arête at that point of the route. Be interest to hear what others think.
jjsk8a 28 Mar, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: The undercut has now gone and left better holds between bolt 2 and 3. I think it maybe slightly easier now (6c+) but I did use new beta going to the arete earlier than when i tried it last year.
Show beta
βeta: The undercut has now gone and left better holds between bolt 2 and 3. I think it maybe slightly easier now (6c+) but I did use new beta going to the arete earlier than when i tried it last year.
glilje 11 Oct, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: 3rd bolt is loose. Hand tightened
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 3rd bolt is loose. Hand tightened
Hal Mungbean 26 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Right hand undercrimp between bolt 1 and 2 very wobbly and set to go soon. May make it a tad harder? Top anchor must have been tightened as bomber today
Show beta
βeta: Right hand undercrimp between bolt 1 and 2 very wobbly and set to go soon. May make it a tad harder? Top anchor must have been tightened as bomber today
mcd0well 31 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Take care as top anchor hangar is still hand tight
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Take care as top anchor hangar is still hand tight
DanJames93 11 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Top chain bolt is currently hand tight
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Top chain bolt is currently hand tight

Logged Ascents

473 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Wyndcliff Quarry

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Voting
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
Votes cast 79
Votes cast 74
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
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