Restricted Access
One of the more convenient and quick-drying crags in the area. Good sport climbing as well as a reasonable selection of trad routes. The popular routes tend to be polished, especially the starts of those on the Lower Lift.
Whitebeams (a rare species of tree) grow on the crag and are an important feature of the SSSI. Please do not cut any trees on or around the crag without gaining permision first as this could result in access issues in future. If you want to carry out cleaning which involves trees, please contact the BMC access team first through access@thebmc.co.uk.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 February to 15 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
There is a tawny owl nesting on "It's Over for Jehovah". Avoide all routes between "Head full of hedda" and "What you think"
Rockfax Description
Begin under a conspicuous sloping hold. Rock up to very small crimps and then go left and up to the midway break. Finish up the wall above to the left of the bolts. Also given E4 6c if the initial bolt is not pre-clipped. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Between the Corrective Party and Mr Whippy. Start below the obvious sloper, rock up to very small crimps, then move left up to the the big break, finishing up the wall to the left of the bolts.
1st bolt is after all the hard climbing, so if you pre-clip then its only a top rope ascent
John Corber.
Ticklists
Road to f7c - Wye Valley , 7Bs with stars near Bristol
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Guidebooks for Wyndcliff Quarry
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