Restricted Access

One of the more convenient and quick-drying crags in the area. Good sport climbing as well as a reasonable selection of trad routes. The popular routes tend to be polished, especially the starts of those on the Lower Lift.

Whitebeams (a rare species of tree) grow on the crag and are an important feature of the SSSI. Please do not cut any trees on or around the crag without gaining permision first as this could result in access issues in future. If you want to carry out cleaning which involves trees, please contact the BMC access team first through access@thebmc.co.uk.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 February to 15 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

There is a tawny owl nesting on "It's Over for Jehovah". Avoide all routes between "Head full of hedda" and "What you think"

8m. Fifteen metres right of Nice Thicket on the upper lift is a small slabby area. Start next to a big fallen tree. Climb a flake crack to a ledge. Tricky moves passing right of the first bolt and left of the second leads to easier moves past the third and lower off.

M S Davies, Gordon A Jenkin 25/Feb/2016.

Ticklists

CoT Wye Valley Mileage #C2K , 6As with stars near Bristol , High in the grade near Bristol

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User Date Notes
springfall2008 22 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: May well be 6a+
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: May well be 6a+

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 58
Votes cast 47
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
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