Restricted Access

Fly Wall and Woodcroft Quarry: the current owners have not given permission to climb on this section of crag. If you do climb on this part of the crag, please be careful not to damage any fences in the area.

GO Wall: topping out now allowed year round for all routes from Feline/Jackal leftwards. King Kong ab. bolts removed. No topping out any time for right hand end – ab. stations in place where required. A large rockfall has recently (Jan 2013) been reported at the righthand side of the Pedestal on Go Wall - care should be taken with any remaining loose rock that may still be in place in this area.

North Wall: following a change of ownership of the house above this section of crag, the previous arrangement to exit through it’s garden is not longer possible. Please do not top out on any North Wall routes - only abseil descent from below the top of the crag is allowed. For those who don't wan't to climb above the Great Ledge, an abseil descent can be made from one of the two bolted abseil stations above The Tap or Joe’s Route. Two further abseil stations have been established just below the top of North Wall (using rope slings and rings around trees) allowing the last pitch of the more popular routes to be climbed and an abseil descent to the Great Ledge be made. 

All rock north of the North Buttress and south of Fly Wall is privately owned and all climbing is prohibited.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 15 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ravens nesting on Wurlitzer. The restriction applies to all routes on Fly Wall between Flypast and Gendarmerie.

Peregrins nesting on North Wall. Avoid top pithes of left hand route (from the great ledge)

45m, 2 pitches. Wrongly located to the right of 'Better Late than Never' in the 2007 guidebook.
1) F7a. Start 1m left of BLtN a blunt arete. Make a couple of stiff pulls to gain a ledge and shallow groove above. Hard moves over the roof are followed by easier climbing to a bolt belay/abseil station.
2) F7a. Continue to the large roof. Overcome this to gain a groove and an abseil station above.

A large flake has come off the lip of the final roof. The grade has probably changed.

The Paladin T Penning, A Sharp, 9/9/84, In the Hands of the Deceiver M J Crocker 26/Jan/1992.

Ticklists

3 Star sport climbs below 7b within a 25 mile radius of Bristol , All multi-pitch sport routes (England and Wales) , 7As with stars near Bristol , High in the grade near Bristol

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Guidebooks for Wintour's Leap

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Voting
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 6
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Dogged
Onsighted
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Pet Cemetery

Grade: 7a ***
(Ban-y-gor)

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