Fly Wall and Woodcroft Quarry: the current owners have not given permission to climb on this section of crag. If you do climb on this part of the crag, please be careful not to damage any fences in the area.
GO Wall: topping out now allowed year round for all routes from Feline/Jackal leftwards. King Kong ab. bolts removed. No topping out any time for right hand end – ab. stations in place where required. A large rockfall has recently (Jan 2013) been reported at the righthand side of the Pedestal on Go Wall - care should be taken with any remaining loose rock that may still be in place in this area.
North Wall: following a change of ownership of the house above this section of crag, the previous arrangement to exit through it’s garden is not longer possible. Please do not top out on any North Wall routes - only abseil descent from below the top of the crag is allowed. For those who don't wan't to climb above the Great Ledge, an abseil descent can be made from one of the two bolted abseil stations above The Tap or Joe’s Route. Two further abseil stations have been established just below the top of North Wall (using rope slings and rings around trees) allowing the last pitch of the more popular routes to be climbed and an abseil descent to the Great Ledge be made.
All rock north of the North Buttress and south of Fly Wall is privately owned and all climbing is prohibited.
Dates: 1 March to 15 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ravens nesting on Wurlitzer. The restriction applies to all routes on Fly Wall between Flypast and Gendarmerie.
Peregrins nesting on North Wall. Avoid top pithes of left hand route (from the great ledge)
Rockfax Description
Challenging, varied and remarkably sustained climbing. Start at an overhang capped corner 10m right of King Kong.
1) 5c, 35m. Climb the corner to the overhang (pegs) then make a difficult move up right onto the face. Follow the best rock and holds straight up the face, heading past a peg towards a conspicuous flake-crack in a white wall and some good gear. Climb the awkward flake-crack to a good ledge and bolt belay.
2) 6a, 25m. Make a difficult move off the belay ledge and then up rightwards towards a peg. Continue to a downward pointing peg in a bulge and make hard moves past a thread to reach the break under the overhang above (can be climbed on the left at 5c). Traverse right into the start of a chimney and climb up for 6m to a good belay in a cave.
3) 5a, 20m. Climb a little way up the chimney and then transfer right onto the face - very exposed. Head for a break in the vegetation above, passing a peg, and carefully scramble up the earthy bank and trees to eventually reach a belay at the base of the final headwall.
4) 5b, 10m. Gain a corner on the left from a block. Ascend the corner until just below an overhang and reach left for holds on the arete, from where some quick pulls gain the top. © Rockfax
C King (F Bennett, P Lennard May 1966, aid) May/1978.
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User | Date | Notes | ||
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Oscar Popels | 14 May, 2022 |
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βeta: Currently in fantastic condition with new bolted belay and pegs throughout. Praise to the equipper! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Currently in fantastic condition with new bolted belay and pegs throughout. Praise to the equipper! |
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TomPearce63 | 28 Mar, 2022 |
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βeta: Crux thread is in good condition | βeta? | |
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βeta: Crux thread is in good condition |
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Ariegeois | 18 Mar, 2021 |
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βeta: Wonderful climb, best on GO Wall. I did it in 1968 - lot of tat in it then, and loose and dirty in places, but all perfectly manageable without aid. The pitch with the overhang was very exciting, and not much gear back then. The vegetation at the top was tenuous! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Wonderful climb, best on GO Wall. I did it in 1968 - lot of tat in it then, and loose and dirty in places, but all perfectly manageable without aid. The pitch with the overhang was very exciting, and not much gear back then. The vegetation at the top was tenuous! |
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jamieevans | 1 Oct, 2020 |
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βeta: Rained off at first belay. Left a no 2 wire to back the crappy pegs up. Treat him well. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Rained off at first belay. Left a no 2 wire to back the crappy pegs up. Treat him well. |
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LucaC | 15 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: Crux thread replaced 15/07/20 | βeta? | |
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βeta: Crux thread replaced 15/07/20 |
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Grade: E2 5c ***
(Wintour's Leap)