Restricted Access

Fly Wall and Woodcroft Quarry: the current owners have not given permission to climb on this section of crag. If you do climb on this part of the crag, please be careful not to damage any fences in the area.

GO Wall: topping out now allowed year round for all routes from Feline/Jackal leftwards. King Kong ab. bolts removed. No topping out any time for right hand end – ab. stations in place where required. A large rockfall has recently (Jan 2013) been reported at the righthand side of the Pedestal on Go Wall - care should be taken with any remaining loose rock that may still be in place in this area.

North Wall: following a change of ownership of the house above this section of crag, the previous arrangement to exit through it’s garden is not longer possible. Please do not top out on any North Wall routes - only abseil descent from below the top of the crag is allowed. For those who don't wan't to climb above the Great Ledge, an abseil descent can be made from one of the two bolted abseil stations above The Tap or Joe’s Route. Two further abseil stations have been established just below the top of North Wall (using rope slings and rings around trees) allowing the last pitch of the more popular routes to be climbed and an abseil descent to the Great Ledge be made. 

All rock north of the North Buttress and south of Fly Wall is privately owned and all climbing is prohibited.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 15 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ravens nesting on Wurlitzer. The restriction applies to all routes on Fly Wall between Flypast and Gendarmerie.

Peregrins nesting on North Wall. Avoid top pithes of left hand route (from the great ledge)

Rockfax Description
A big undertaking that has a bold initial pitch and spectacular second. Start next to a two-pronged tree.
1) 5c, 26m. Climb boldly up the groove, past a small tree, to a peg at an overhang. Make difficult moves up and leftward then head up a wall to a ledge. Continue rightwards to a thread belay on the midway ledge right of a huge prow.
2) 5c, 24m. Head up left to the arete and a peg under the overhang. Pull up onto the face above and climb it (pegs) to the break below the next overhang. Go right and up a technical corner to another overhang. Traverse back left to gain a final short corner that access an earth bank and the top above this. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Ultimate E4 ticklist

Feedback

User Date Notes
Gary Gibson 9 Oct, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: First ascent GaryGibson
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: First ascent GaryGibson
luke townsend 25 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: I will be going back next week hopefully to continue to clean it up and continue down the to the first pitch which currently has a broken ash tree form the woods behind it laid against the wall. I will remove this also and post again when I’ve given it a go!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I will be going back next week hopefully to continue to clean it up and continue down the to the first pitch which currently has a broken ash tree form the woods behind it laid against the wall. I will remove this also and post again when I’ve given it a go!
luke townsend 25 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: I have just rapped over and cleaned the top pitch of gendarmerie. I’m doing so I have removed some large blocks that made up the upper part of the flake that is used to surmount the first main overhang, and potentially a gear placement. (They we’re very very loose, and could easily have caused injury). I can’t comment on weather this has changed the difficulty of the route as I never climbed it before, but I would say it is still around the e4 5c mark.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I have just rapped over and cleaned the top pitch of gendarmerie. I’m doing so I have removed some large blocks that made up the upper part of the flake that is used to surmount the first main overhang, and potentially a gear placement. (They we’re very very loose, and could easily have caused injury). I can’t comment on weather this has changed the difficulty of the route as I never climbed it before, but I would say it is still around the e4 5c mark.
Gary Gibson 26 Jul, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: First ascent GaryGibson and Damon
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: First ascent GaryGibson and Damon
Mattress 18 Apr, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: April 2023: Ravens are nesting and have chicks on the belay ledge between this route and Firefly-Wurlitzer. Suggest avoiding until they have left.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: April 2023: Ravens are nesting and have chicks on the belay ledge between this route and Firefly-Wurlitzer. Suggest avoiding until they have left.

Logged Ascents

48 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Wintour's Leap

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 12 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 12
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 13
Votes cast 14
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
La Folie

Grade: E4 6a ***
(Wintour's Leap)

Loading Notifications...