Restricted Access
Fly Wall and Woodcroft Quarry: the current owners have not given permission to climb on this section of crag. If you do climb on this part of the crag, please be careful not to damage any fences in the area.
GO Wall: topping out now allowed year round for all routes from Feline/Jackal leftwards. King Kong ab. bolts removed. No topping out any time for right hand end – ab. stations in place where required. A large rockfall has recently (Jan 2013) been reported at the righthand side of the Pedestal on Go Wall - care should be taken with any remaining loose rock that may still be in place in this area.
North Wall: following a change of ownership of the house above this section of crag, the previous arrangement to exit through it’s garden is not longer possible. Please do not top out on any North Wall routes - only abseil descent from below the top of the crag is allowed. For those who don't wan't to climb above the Great Ledge, an abseil descent can be made from one of the two bolted abseil stations above The Tap or Joe’s Route. Two further abseil stations have been established just below the top of North Wall (using rope slings and rings around trees) allowing the last pitch of the more popular routes to be climbed and an abseil descent to the Great Ledge be made.
All rock north of the North Buttress and south of Fly Wall is privately owned and all climbing is prohibited.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 15 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ravens nesting on Wurlitzer. The restriction applies to all routes on Fly Wall between Flypast and Gendarmerie.
Peregrins nesting on North Wall. Avoid top pithes of left hand route (from the great ledge)
Rockfax Description
Two decent corner pitches. Start on a raised section of ground under a red-stained wall below an overhang.
1) 5a, 24m. Head up poor/dirty rock to the overhang and move right to pass it and enter a corner. Follow the corner all the way to the midway ledge. Belay left of the corner at a thread.
2) 5a, 24m. Move right to the corner in the upper wall and follow a detached-looking pillar to a ledge. Continue up the crack above and finish up the earth slope with care. © Rockfax
G Pemberton 19/Aug/1967.
Ticklists
Bristol Crack School , CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, blue list (VS and HVS) , 23 HVS routes for 2023
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mattress | 27 Mar, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: The top of this route, climbing slippery grass and mud, would be deadly in the wet. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: The top of this route, climbing slippery grass and mud, would be deadly in the wet. |
||||
| luke43 | 28 Jul, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: knocked off a large block at the start...route is largely unchanged narrow pillar looks detached ! | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: knocked off a large block at the start...route is largely unchanged narrow pillar looks detached ! |
||||
| Mbowell | 18 Jul, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Good route. Belay described in the guide is lost to bramble but nut belay possible under start of p2 although it is directly under the narrow pillar and not entirely sure how/if this is attached to the crag! | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Good route. Belay described in the guide is lost to bramble but nut belay possible under start of p2 although it is directly under the narrow pillar and not entirely sure how/if this is attached to the crag! |
||||
| BStar | 23 Oct, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: The thin pillar on P2 flexed a lot when I placed a cam behind it... I promptly took said cam out, quite a lot of rock there that will one day come down | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: The thin pillar on P2 flexed a lot when I placed a cam behind it... I promptly took said cam out, quite a lot of rock there that will one day come down |
||||
Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Wintour's Leap
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Orange Wall
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Symonds Yat)