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USER ATTENTION

Advisory notice: Crows (most probably jackdaws) are reported to be nesting in the Graveyard area. Staying off routes/problems in this area will avoid possible disturbance.

 

Now owned by the BMC, this disused quarry has been dedicated as Open Access Land under the CRoW Act. A few things to consider when climbing at this crag:

  • Whilst generally good quality gritstone, there is potential for loose rock given the site is a former quarry, where blasting techniques were used to remove rock and ongoing weathering could also loosen rock over time (as with any other crag).
  • Consider wearing a helmet when climbing in the quarry.
  • Some routes in the quarry feature fixed equipment such as pegs, stuck trad gear, belay stakes and even a few bolts. Fixed equipment should always be treated with caution and it is up to each climber to make a judgement call whether they think it is reliable. Consider backing up fixed equipment with your own gear wherever possible.

If you're able to lend a hand on the cleanup sessions, someone on the 'Lancashire Rock Revival' group will point you in the right direction: https://www.facebook.com/groups/1566324270279682

12m.

Rockfax Description
A fine varied pitch up the south-facing side wall, with an interesting start followed by steep finger jamming to a teetering exit. Start up the slanting crack until a short traverse right leads to easy ground. Well-protected where you need it. © Rockfax

FA. Hank Pasquill 1968.

Ticklists

Very good routes in the UK , ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List , Classic Wilton Workout , Ultimate E2 ticklist , Wilton wanderers

Feedback

User Date Notes
Tommy_shaw 18 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Found the move over the first block tricky, into a bad rest. The traverse is scary, just don’t fall :)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Found the move over the first block tricky, into a bad rest. The traverse is scary, just don’t fall :)

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Wilton 1

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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 47
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 50
Votes cast 46
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Hanging Crack

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Dovestones Edge)

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