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USER ATTENTION
Advisory notice: Crows (most probably jackdaws) are reported to be nesting in the Graveyard area. Staying off routes/problems in this area will avoid possible disturbance.
Now owned by the BMC, this disused quarry has been dedicated as Open Access Land under the CRoW Act. A few things to consider when climbing at this crag:
- Whilst generally good quality gritstone, there is potential for loose rock given the site is a former quarry, where blasting techniques were used to remove rock and ongoing weathering could also loosen rock over time (as with any other crag).
- Consider wearing a helmet when climbing in the quarry.
- Some routes in the quarry feature fixed equipment such as pegs, stuck trad gear, belay stakes and even a few bolts. Fixed equipment should always be treated with caution and it is up to each climber to make a judgement call whether they think it is reliable. Consider backing up fixed equipment with your own gear wherever possible.
If you're able to lend a hand on the cleanup sessions, someone on the 'Lancashire Rock Revival' group will point you in the right direction: https://www.facebook.com/groups/1566324270279682
Rockfax Description
The wall left of Cameo has bold climbing but if you can crimp then you might find it OK! It may need a clean and a side-runner in Spider Crack is probably no bad idea. A tiny nubbin can be tied-off, and who knows - it might even hold a fall! © Rockfax
FA. Jerry Peel 1977.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List , Wilton wanderers , McCoys Homestyle trad
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| a pedley | 23 May, 2020 |
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βeta: Thin at the top, | βeta? | |
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βeta: Thin at the top, |
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| Andy Stewart2 | 23 May, 2020 |
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βeta: Abbed down expecting it to be dirty, but it was in great nick. The top moves are definitely the trickiest and I wished I'd paid more attention to the holds as I abbed past! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Abbed down expecting it to be dirty, but it was in great nick. The top moves are definitely the trickiest and I wished I'd paid more attention to the holds as I abbed past! |
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| JR | 5 Jun, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: the description here is slightly wrong though. You don't really climb the wall to easier ground, it steady 5b wall climbing to a harder move higher up. The crux is the move to gain a big edge 6 inches below the top assuming you haven't moved left. One move to top out doesn't really constitute easy ground. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: the description here is slightly wrong though. You don't really climb the wall to easier ground, it steady 5b wall climbing to a harder move higher up. The crux is the move to gain a big edge 6 inches below the top assuming you haven't moved left. One move to top out doesn't really constitute easy ground. |
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| JR | 5 Jun, 2007 |
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βeta: I stuck two poorish nuts in cameo pretty much level (on move up and reversed) with where you break off left and then a cam above the slung flake in the crack to the left (again one move higher than you continue on the line of the route.) In all honesty using the flake alone would be ok but its not a route i'd want to fall off in a hurry. Wouldn't bother slinging a chicken head with cord, if its where i was thinking it was it would get in your way as a handhold on the crux. If you're that desperate there's plenty of places for skyhooks. Felt steady E4 5c, definitely Cheat's big brother; a step up in boldness. Escapable at the crux unfortunately. There was chalk on the route when I did it but clearly from top ropers as it was all over the place, would feel bolder without any chalk on the route. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I stuck two poorish nuts in cameo pretty much level (on move up and reversed) with where you break off left and then a cam above the slung flake in the crack to the left (again one move higher than you continue on the line of the route.) In all honesty using the flake alone would be ok but its not a route i'd want to fall off in a hurry. Wouldn't bother slinging a chicken head with cord, if its where i was thinking it was it would get in your way as a handhold on the crux. If you're that desperate there's plenty of places for skyhooks. Felt steady E4 5c, definitely Cheat's big brother; a step up in boldness. Escapable at the crux unfortunately. There was chalk on the route when I did it but clearly from top ropers as it was all over the place, would feel bolder without any chalk on the route. |
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| Fiend | 31 May, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Great and delicate crimping in a fine position. Climbable without cleaning as long as it's dry - a lack of chalk enhances the experience. Most natural thing to do with gear is the obvious low runners in Cameo before trending left, and the obvious hollow flake runners higher on the left - felt like a reasonable E4 like that. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Great and delicate crimping in a fine position. Climbable without cleaning as long as it's dry - a lack of chalk enhances the experience. Most natural thing to do with gear is the obvious low runners in Cameo before trending left, and the obvious hollow flake runners higher on the left - felt like a reasonable E4 like that. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Wilton 1
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Calamity Crack
Grade: E4 6a ***
(Running Hill Pits)