Restricted Access
The Willersley area is owned by the Arkwright Society. It is essential that climbers do not block gateways with parked cars and that disturbance is keep to a minimum. Access negotiations have been on-going between the BMC and the Arkwright Society, and climbers continue to access the crag. If you are asked to leave, please remain courteous and report the incident to the BMC.
Rockfax Description
A fine climb with a butch crux that feels a long way off the ground. Climb the long groove to the bulges then power left through these on a series of pockets (old tat) to a tough pull into the groove. Finish direct - sensible, or exit rightwards - illogical and guaranteed to increase rope-drag. © Rockfax
FFA. Keith Myhill 1969. FA. Steve Read, Steve Hunt 1958.
Ticklists
Peak Rock/7/8/Biven-Peck Partnership/1950's a Developing Decade , Definitive *** Peak Lime , Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| mrteale | 10 Aug, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Replaced one of the threads and also backed up the lower one (both with green 7mm cord) in the roof - 10.08.20 should be good for a while. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Replaced one of the threads and also backed up the lower one (both with green 7mm cord) in the roof - 10.08.20 should be good for a while. |
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| debsb | 23 Aug, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: New maillon but rope at belay in very poor condition and needs to be removed, 22/08/19. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: New maillon but rope at belay in very poor condition and needs to be removed, 22/08/19. |
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| Katya | 22 Jun, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: A great route. Really quite qirty at present, it needs more climbers and less spiders. Don't remember a 'series of unhelpful pockets', just big holds and manky tats. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: A great route. Really quite qirty at present, it needs more climbers and less spiders. Don't remember a 'series of unhelpful pockets', just big holds and manky tats. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Willersley Castle Rocks
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Mordaunt
Grade: E2 5b ***
(Cratcliffe Tor)