Restricted Access

The site is part of a Local Nature Reserve and the quarry floor below Main Wall provides an important orchid habitat - please avoid this area from April-June inclusive.

There is a bolting agreement for some agreed routes from Modern Wall rightwards, any future bolting development needs to be discussed with the local BMC access rep and potentially the landowner before any work.

The roof of the cave left of Gouffle is thought to be unstable and is being monitored by Lancashire County Council. Please take care not to damage the rock or indicators measuring any movement. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 14 February to 1 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

During the nesting season each year, climbing in Warton Main is restricted for the whole quarry including the Terrace, to prevent disturbance of peregrines and other birds. Thank you for following the restrictions. The BMC has a good relationship with interested parties locally, birds are actively monitored and if fledging birds allow, the restrictions will be lifted early and this page updated.

 

29m. Route looks to be stable, but on closer appearance is very loose, with even the first ledge showing signs of cracks. The instability of the rock increases as you climb and the whole face looks likely to come down around the crack traverse 3/4 of the way up.

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Turbo-Punter's Tradification

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Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Birch

Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Central Quarry)

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