Restricted Access

The site is part of a Local Nature Reserve and the quarry floor below Main Wall provides an important orchid habitat - please avoid this area from April-June inclusive.

There is a bolting agreement for some agreed routes from Modern Wall rightwards, any future bolting development needs to be discussed with the local BMC access rep and potentially the landowner before any work.

The roof of the cave left of Gouffle is thought to be unstable and is being monitored by Lancashire County Council. Please take care not to damage the rock or indicators measuring any movement. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 14 February to 1 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

During the nesting season each year, climbing in Warton Main is restricted for the whole quarry including the Terrace, to prevent disturbance of peregrines and other birds. Thank you for following the restrictions. The BMC has a good relationship with interested parties locally, birds are actively monitored and if fledging birds allow, the restrictions will be lifted early and this page updated.

 

Read the BMC Lancs description before climbing this, the route steps left at the corner and goes up the obvious steep crack in the left wall.

Ticklists

Lancashire's Finest , Turbo-Punter's Tradification , The Silverdale Crag Challenge

Feedback

User Date Notes
Col Kingshott 19 Jul, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Cleaned 19-07-23, all greenery removed. Top couple of metres will always be loose.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Cleaned 19-07-23, all greenery removed. Top couple of metres will always be loose.
smoreda 25 Sep, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Loose blocks at the top, older entries make reference to, have been cleared. It all felt pretty sound to me.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Loose blocks at the top, older entries make reference to, have been cleared. It all felt pretty sound to me.
Nigel Coe 24 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Has been cleaned
Show beta
βeta: Has been cleaned

Logged Ascents

101 users have logged this
16 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 14
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 14
Votes cast 16
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Witch Bane

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Witches' Quarry)

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