Restricted Access
All of the Wallsend crags face west so catch the afternoon sun well. Wallsend South is closer to the sea and can suffer from soapy rock on still and humid days, whereas Wallsend North is set back a little and is less affected by greasyness. The Colors Area and Hong Kon Phooey Area are cut off at high tides or in rough seas.Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
There are no applied bird restriction along the Wallsend cliff at present, (2022) However due to it's more isolated nature and available nesting ledges, it is often populated with breeding pairs of seabird through the season. As well as a Ravens nest in the Bigger Peace area.
Be sensible and avoid any routes close to nesting birds and advise others of nests, to leave them in peace. They will all be gone by mid July.
Rockfax Description
A first-rate pitch taking on the fine left-hand finish to Accordions Go Crazy up some flakes. © Rockfax
FA. Neal Heanes 16/Jun/2003.
Ticklists
3 Star Portland , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , South coast sport/DWS ticklist , Classic Portland 7as (2* +) , Portland , The Portland Olympian Challenge (Pete and Butters's routes) , Portland 7a/+ , Portland Olympian
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Thefatcatsociety | 6 Oct, 2019 |
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βeta: Found crux to be well above the shelf, didn't feel dodgy. First rp attempt, great climb | βeta? | |
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βeta: Found crux to be well above the shelf, didn't feel dodgy. First rp attempt, great climb |
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| tomrainbow | 12 Apr, 2007 |
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βeta: Really good but spoilt by the ledge at 1/3 height (2*s because of it). It looks as though climbing in from the arete to the left would make this even better. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Really good but spoilt by the ledge at 1/3 height (2*s because of it). It looks as though climbing in from the arete to the left would make this even better. |
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| matt perks | 23 Apr, 2006 |
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βeta: This is a lovely route. I'm going for 2*. It's a soft 7a I think but nicely technical. | ||
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βeta: This is a lovely route. I'm going for 2*. It's a soft 7a I think but nicely technical. |
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| Climber_Bill | 20 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: Sorry Ben, don't agree with you on this. Its a nice climb for the grade, if a bit easy, but not one of the best on portland. We'll argue about it next time we meet up! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Sorry Ben, don't agree with you on this. Its a nice climb for the grade, if a bit easy, but not one of the best on portland. We'll argue about it next time we meet up! |
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| Ben Stokes | 14 Jun, 2005 |
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βeta: One of the best 7a's on Portland. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: One of the best 7a's on Portland. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Wallsend South
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Horny Lil' Devil
Grade: 7a ***
(Lulworth)