Restricted Access

All of the Wallsend crags face west so catch the afternoon sun well. Wallsend South is closer to the sea and can suffer from soapy rock on still and humid days, whereas Wallsend North is set back a little and is less affected by greasyness. The Colors Area and Hong Kon Phooey Area are cut off at high tides or in rough seas.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

There are no applied bird restriction along the Wallsend cliff at present, (2022) However due to it's more isolated nature and available nesting ledges, it is often populated with breeding pairs of seabird through the season. As well as a Ravens nest in the Bigger Peace area.

Be sensible and avoid any routes close to nesting birds and advise others of nests, to leave them in peace. They will all be gone by mid July.

 

20m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the flake right of the bolts past a difficult second clip. © Rockfax

FA. Martin Crocker 15/Jul/1989.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Portland , Portland 7a/+

Feedback

User Date Notes
Ben Stokes 30 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: It is worth noting the route follows the obvious line of flakes to the right of the bolts. It is also a good idea to pre-place a long quickdraw on the 2nd bolt.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: It is worth noting the route follows the obvious line of flakes to the right of the bolts. It is also a good idea to pre-place a long quickdraw on the 2nd bolt.
Ben Stokes 19 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Excellent climbing with a definite crux section. Easily worth two stars.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Excellent climbing with a definite crux section. Easily worth two stars.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Wallsend South

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Voting
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 7
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Onsighted
Not Set
Route of Interest
Sang Chaud

Grade: 7a+ ***
(Wallsend South)

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