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All of the Wallsend crags face west so catch the afternoon sun well. Wallsend South is closer to the sea and can suffer from soapy rock on still and humid days, whereas Wallsend North is set back a little and is less affected by greasyness. The Colors Area and Hong Kon Phooey Area are cut off at high tides or in rough seas.Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
There are no applied bird restriction along the Wallsend cliff at present, (2022) However due to it's more isolated nature and available nesting ledges, it is often populated with breeding pairs of seabird through the season. As well as a Ravens nest in the Bigger Peace area.
Be sensible and avoid any routes close to nesting birds and advise others of nests, to leave them in peace. They will all be gone by mid July.
Rockfax Description
A splendid pitch that features a forceful finger-crack. Start in an overhung sentry-box. Move up and right to clear the overhang and gain the wall above. Climb the wall rightwards on good finger-holds to the base of a thin crack in the upper wall. The fine, thin crack is climbed with difficulty to a short headwall. © Rockfax
FA. Pete Oxley 11/Jul/1989.
Ticklists
West Country Climbs , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Portland 3 stars grades 6 and below , Portland , West Country Climbs: Sport Routes Grades 5 to 7a+ , Portland Projects 6c-7a+ , Portland scheming
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
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| dinodinosaur | 27 Aug, 2023 |
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βeta: Feels like an E4 on bolts, wicked | βeta? | |
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βeta: Feels like an E4 on bolts, wicked |
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| Luke.Nisbet | 19 Sep, 2022 |
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βeta: Amazing climb much more like a boulder than \"The Jewel of the Isle\" with some good moves on it | ||
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βeta: Amazing climb much more like a boulder than "The Jewel of the Isle" with some good moves on it |
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| Tituscrags | 19 Sep, 2022 |
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βeta: This route was excellent, crack climb crux was awesome | βeta? | |
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βeta: This route was excellent, crack climb crux was awesome |
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| earthkeptwarm | 17 Oct, 2020 |
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βeta: Kinda good line but it's run out, a bit of rock fell off at the start which is sketch and I would recommend clipsticking... It's really all about the crack which requires some work to read. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Kinda good line but it's run out, a bit of rock fell off at the start which is sketch and I would recommend clipsticking... It's really all about the crack which requires some work to read. |
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| tomrainbow | 7 May, 2001 |
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βeta: The climbing may only be 6c but the runout is definitely 6c+. Felt E4 6a in old money. The climbing is good but a bit disjointed, the lower half being much easier. | βeta? | |
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βeta: The climbing may only be 6c but the runout is definitely 6c+. Felt E4 6a in old money. The climbing is good but a bit disjointed, the lower half being much easier. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Wallsend South
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Turned to Stone
Grade: 6c+ ***
(Blacknor South)