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All of the Wallsend crags face west so catch the afternoon sun well. Wallsend South is closer to the sea and can suffer from soapy rock on still and humid days, whereas Wallsend North is set back a little and is less affected by greasyness. The Colors Area and Hong Kon Phooey Area are cut off at high tides or in rough seas.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

There are no applied bird restriction along the Wallsend cliff at present, (2022) However due to it's more isolated nature and available nesting ledges, it is often populated with breeding pairs of seabird through the season. As well as a Ravens nest in the Bigger Peace area.

Be sensible and avoid any routes close to nesting birds and advise others of nests, to leave them in peace. They will all be gone by mid July.

 

20m.

Rockfax Description
A good route that feels a little bold in places. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 17/Jul/1990.

Ticklists

Portland , Portland 7a/+

Feedback

User Date Notes
Climber_Bill 13 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Very good route which as of Sunday 12th Oct 2003 was clean with good climbing and is steady at 7a. HOWEVER, it is VERY runout and is more E5 than 7a. It is probably just about safe, but quite scary, with big lob potential. Certainly not in same character as most other Portland sport routes
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very good route which as of Sunday 12th Oct 2003 was clean with good climbing and is steady at 7a. HOWEVER, it is VERY runout and is more E5 than 7a. It is probably just about safe, but quite scary, with big lob potential. Certainly not in same character as most other Portland sport routes

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 3
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Horny Lil' Devil

Grade: 7a ***
(Lulworth)

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