The best climbing faces are available to climbers but access is not permitted to the right of ‘Graveyard Gate’, (with the exclusion of ‘Meet Thy Creator’) to help protect rare plants.
Reason: Nesting Birds
Please do not block the road to the crag - the land is shared with the Uphill boat yard and access may be harmed by inconsiderate parking.
Rockfax Description
An audacious (almost) sport route up the limited space between the two big trad lines on the wall. From the initial peg on The Enlightenment, climb direct via thin hard climbing, to a rest at the break (on The Enlightenment) - place gear here. Climb the groove above and finish rightwards. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Magnificent technical face climbing. The route fills the void between The Jimi Hendrix Experience and The Enlightenment and comfortably matches both in terms of challenge and quality. Climb to the new bolt shared by Jimi and The Enlightenment and dance a plumb line thereafter up the seemingly blank wall via a sequence of only just crimps and sidepulls. Make insecure moves, with poor feet, a disconcerting distance above the newly placed bolt that protects the lower section to gain the break, and the half-height rest, on The Enlightenment directly.
At the break, wiggle some gear in, before making reachy moves on good pockets and crimps to negotiate the groove on the right before moving back left. Briefly re-join the Enlightenment in its upper reaches before exiting to the right.
Hard at 7c with some big but safe fall potential in the lower half.
James Marshall 19/Jan/2014.
James's Bristol 7c's , 7Cs with stars near Bristol , Best of Bristol Sport
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
Xavierpercy | 18 Jul, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: The climbing from the half height ledge was originally done by Martin Crocker in 2008. He did The Enlightenment to get there and graded it 7b+ “Love or Confusion.” | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: The climbing from the half height ledge was originally done by Martin Crocker in 2008. He did The Enlightenment to get there and graded it 7b+ “Love or Confusion.” |
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Grade: 7c ***
(Cheddar Gorge South)