Rockfax Description
The central corner that rises from the overhung ledge at the base of High Cliff is a stunning line. Technically reasonable but the commitment required earns it the grade. The nature of the climbing and the situation is very serious and this is not a place to get into trouble. Start at the bottom of the rocky ramp that slopes seawards below the gearing-up spot.
1) 5a, 20m. Traverse left to a protruding ledge and continue around an arete to a large platform beneath roofs and the main corner.
2) 6a, 20m. From the right-hand side of the platform, climb the right-hand of two converging cracks past a short, hard section to better holds beneath the roof. Committing moves leftwards gain a precarious rest in a chimney on the lip of the roof. Move up this and its left wall to a small stance.
3) 5c, 20m. Climb the main corner, moving left around a bulge, to a good ledge and belay.
4) 4c, 24m. Climb the crack in the right wall of the corner for 10m then step back left and follow the groove to a roof. Move rightwards easily but on deteriorating rock until a faultline leads up to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Extreme Rock , West Country Climbs , Rockfax West Country top 50 , UK Extreme Corners , UK Lonely Leads , Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist , Caff's 100 Ace E5s , Ultimate E5 ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , 100 Pat Littlejohn Masterpieces , Classic Rock Climbs in Southern England by Bill Birkett , South West in Extremis

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Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 11
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 11
Votes cast 11
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Ground Up
DNF
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
One Stood against Many

Grade: E5 6a ***
(Tintagel Head)

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