Rockfax Description
A popular expedition. Start on the left side of the block used as the scramble up to the start of Cretin's Cavort.
1) 4b, 16m. Move up to a narrow pointed overhang right of a corner/groove and follow the cracks above it to a tree and belay.
2) 4b, 18m. Make a rising traverse leftwards up a sloping ledge, using underclings in places, to an earthy groove. Follow the groove to a short slab and a spacious belay ledge above.
3) 4a, 18m. Climb a groove to below the huge black overhang. Traverse right to the end of the overhang and finish up the corner past a tree.
3a) Inkspots Hangover, HVS 5b - A strenuous alternative up the right side of the overhang above the groove. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Start just left of the large block.
1) 4b. Climb the cracks, passing a hard move, to reach a slab that leads to a ledge, and a tree belay.
2) 4a. Make a rising traverse, using underclings in places, to move left into an earthy groove. This groove leads to a short slab, and a spacious ledge.
3) 3c. Climb the hanging corner.
4) 3c. Traverse across the wall, using underclings, to reach a short corner. Climb this corner, past a tree, to a belay.
2020 Vision , Dewerstone Sub-HVS Multipitch Time Trial , Cream first! , Meg'n'Liz's Dewerstone slicklist , Routes for MCI
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
Florensics | 27 Feb, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: On the 2nd pitch, there is a very large loose rock on the more left-hand side of the face, its got a very sharp edge along the top of it and is quite obvious. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: On the 2nd pitch, there is a very large loose rock on the more left-hand side of the face, its got a very sharp edge along the top of it and is quite obvious. |
||||
Bennyboy1233 | 27 Mar, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Got a bit lost on the second pitch, didn\'t traverse enough to the left | ||
Show beta
βeta: Got a bit lost on the second pitch, didn't traverse enough to the left |
||||
stevevans5 | 18 Oct, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Some loose rock on pitch 2 - take care! The Dartmoor guide has the technical grades for pitches 1 and 2 the other way round | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Some loose rock on pitch 2 - take care! The Dartmoor guide has the technical grades for pitches 1 and 2 the other way round |
||||
chudders1 | 13 Oct, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: 2 stars of anyone’s money !! 3 awesome pitches ! A must do !! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: 2 stars of anyone’s money !! 3 awesome pitches ! A must do !! |
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Grade: VS 4b ***
(Lundy)