45m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A spectacular linkage taking on the hold plastered sheer right wall of Central Groove, followed by a powerful overhang high up on the cliff. Start as for Central Groove.
1) 5b, 28m. Climb up the initial wall of Central Groove and bridge out right onto a hanging slab. Immediately climb direct to the left end of the overhang above and pull through onto the vertical wall. Ascend direct on positive holds to the belay at the top of pitch one of Central Groove.
2) 5b, 17m. Climb up and then leftwards to below a large overhang. Tackle the overhang by moving up rightwards on large but well spaced holds to a mossy crack. Move up the crack past a small tree to a ledge. Take the short easy crack to finish. © Rockfax

FA. Pat Littlejohn, John Fowler 3.8.1968 (The direct start was climbed in the 1980s) The upper pitch is part of the route Extendable Arms. FA. Pete O'Sullivan 27.1.1979 03/Aug/1968.

Ticklists

The E1 UK Roadtrip , 100 Pat Littlejohn Masterpieces , Dartmoor UKC *** Trad , Devon and surrounding counties, 51 E1, some E2, 1 E3 and an E9

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User Date Notes
Graeme Hammond 23 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Also known as Scimitar Direct in the CC guide. P2 through the roof is fantastic and is worth doing despite the recommendation in the CC Dartmoor guide to finish as for Central Groove.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Also known as Scimitar Direct in the CC guide. P2 through the roof is fantastic and is worth doing despite the recommendation in the CC Dartmoor guide to finish as for Central Groove.

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Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
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Onsighted
Dogged
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Route of Interest
Incubus

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Sanctuary Wall)

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