Rockfax Description
The centre of the roof starting near the back from an undercut and a pocket-pinch. Gain jugs on the lip and turn the roof leftward via a high, flat hold. © Rockfax
FA. Ben Stokes 2001.
Ticklists
Dorset Bouldering Top 50 , RCCR , Cuttings Ticklist , Portland - The Boulders
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| daveshirman | 5 May, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Not sure what Ben was on about with the starting holds - but there are two holds next to each other, near the back of the roof. A left hand slot - that you can hold backwards (palm turned towards you), then using your thumb to make it a pinch. A right hand pinch. There is a pocket big enough for a few fingers nearer the lip that I would say don't start with as it takes out the first hard move, i.e. getting off the floor and into that hold+positon. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Not sure what Ben was on about with the starting holds - but there are two holds next to each other, near the back of the roof. A left hand slot - that you can hold backwards (palm turned towards you), then using your thumb to make it a pinch. A right hand pinch. There is a pocket big enough for a few fingers nearer the lip that I would say don't start with as it takes out the first hard move, i.e. getting off the floor and into that hold+positon. |
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| Ben Stokes | 30 Apr, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: The pocket/pinch comes from placing your left thumb in a pocket - not much bigger for anything else - and your fingers forming the pinch. If I remember correctly the pocket pinch is about 30cm in the direction of the lip from the undercut. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The pocket/pinch comes from placing your left thumb in a pocket - not much bigger for anything else - and your fingers forming the pinch. If I remember correctly the pocket pinch is about 30cm in the direction of the lip from the undercut. |
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| Dan Savory | 28 Apr, 2007 |
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βeta: Any advice on the start? Is the pocket pinch just left of the undercut or is it the good pocket further out towards the lip? | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Any advice on the start? Is the pocket pinch just left of the undercut or is it the good pocket further out towards the lip? |
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| Ben Stokes | 21 Jun, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Try going feet first, it's easier - honest! | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Try going feet first, it's easier - honest! |
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Route of Interest
Pete's Rib, Sit-start
Grade: f7A ***
(Neddyfields)