16m.
Rockfax Description
Climb easily to a ledge. From the right gain a smaller ledge on the left with difficulty and then move up the small groove above precariously to an easing below the final wall. Originally only 4c, but the loss of one of the finger tips has made it much harder. © Rockfax
Ticklists
Portland , Top 50 Most Logged Climbs in the South West (Sport)
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| User | Date | Notes | ||
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| earthkeptwarm | 17 Oct, 2020 |
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βeta: It's a good route with classic slippy cuttings style holds. | βeta? | |
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βeta: It's a good route with classic slippy cuttings style holds. |
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| TomAlford | 28 Jul, 2019 |
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βeta: Didn't think this was much good... Really polished and slippy for the crux mantle thing, ended up doing a much harder sequence up to a crimp (later used as a foot for the final headwall) as it was the only way that didn't feel like I'd just grease out | ||
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βeta: Didn't think this was much good... Really polished and slippy for the crux mantle thing, ended up doing a much harder sequence up to a crimp (later used as a foot for the final headwall) as it was the only way that didn't feel like I'd just grease out |
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| migs493 | 10 Jun, 2007 |
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βeta: Did the route on Sat, I was just about to send a novice climber up it! I was warned off by another climber, thought it was about 5+. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Did the route on Sat, I was just about to send a novice climber up it! I was warned off by another climber, thought it was about 5+. |
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| Lloyders | 3 May, 2007 |
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βeta: IMO appox. Grade 5/5+. Never 6a. A few exposed moves | βeta? | |
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βeta: IMO appox. Grade 5/5+. Never 6a. A few exposed moves |
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| omniscient_penguin | 3 Apr, 2007 |
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βeta: Not 6a, the moves in themselves are not hard, just feels occasionally desperate on that top section as you step out when leading. Straight up to the lower off is a power option, whereas breaking right is more balanced climb. At the far top right there's one of those marvelous sticky-out handle grips you find all the time on indoor climbing walls and think to yourself,"like you'd get that on a rock face," sadly you reach it after all the sweating and crying has been done. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Not 6a, the moves in themselves are not hard, just feels occasionally desperate on that top section as you step out when leading. Straight up to the lower off is a power option, whereas breaking right is more balanced climb. At the far top right there's one of those marvelous sticky-out handle grips you find all the time on indoor climbing walls and think to yourself,"like you'd get that on a rock face," sadly you reach it after all the sweating and crying has been done. |
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| Ducks Rock | 13 Feb, 2007 |
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βeta: Def not a 4. A hard 5+ or a 6a. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Def not a 4. A hard 5+ or a 6a. |
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| omniscient_penguin | 18 Jun, 2006 |
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βeta: way harder than 4, the last moves are quite exposed. It's quite obvious a large chunk has dropped off - I think I used one bit as a ground anchor? | βeta? | |
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βeta: way harder than 4, the last moves are quite exposed. It's quite obvious a large chunk has dropped off - I think I used one bit as a ground anchor? |
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| orge | 12 Feb, 2006 |
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βeta: This was my first route at Portland and it nearly sent me packing back up North for the grit! :) Can't say I was having a great day, but I'm glad to see that others feel this was tough for the grade. | βeta? | |
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βeta: This was my first route at Portland and it nearly sent me packing back up North for the grit! :) Can't say I was having a great day, but I'm glad to see that others feel this was tough for the grade. |
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| Ben Thorne | 3 Sep, 2005 |
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βeta: Probably is about 5. The move over the 'ledge' (where the finger was) can be done either super-direct or via a rock-over on the right. Both not too hard but a little daunting. Higher up it's just a bit of a reach. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Probably is about 5. The move over the 'ledge' (where the finger was) can be done either super-direct or via a rock-over on the right. Both not too hard but a little daunting. Higher up it's just a bit of a reach. |
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| Wilbur | 30 Aug, 2005 |
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βeta: warmed up on this yesterday to re-check my opinion of the grade and i reckon it's 5+. move frome the ledge up whilst unclipped is precarious and not easy right or straight up. right is really balancy and straight up from the ledge is strengthy. above that is ok-ish but the move to the lower off is solid 5+. F4 is totally wrong! | βeta? | |
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βeta: warmed up on this yesterday to re-check my opinion of the grade and i reckon it's 5+. move frome the ledge up whilst unclipped is precarious and not easy right or straight up. right is really balancy and straight up from the ledge is strengthy. above that is ok-ish but the move to the lower off is solid 5+. F4 is totally wrong! |
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| Wilbur | 12 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: On the plus side loads of people are going to get sandbagged by this as a result of the new guide ;o) | βeta? | |
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βeta: On the plus side loads of people are going to get sandbagged by this as a result of the new guide ;o) |
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| Wilbur | 22 Jun, 2005 |
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βeta: Remember doing this last year in July/Aug and it seemed around easy 6A - poss hard 5+... When did the hold get ripped off/it became easier because no way 4/4+/5 when i did it!!! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Remember doing this last year in July/Aug and it seemed around easy 6A - poss hard 5+... When did the hold get ripped off/it became easier because no way 4/4+/5 when i did it!!! |
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| Ben Stokes | 22 Jun, 2005 |
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βeta: It was 6a until Gavin Symonds removed half of the 'third finger'. However you are right; 4 is a little mean! | βeta? | |
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βeta: It was 6a until Gavin Symonds removed half of the 'third finger'. However you are right; 4 is a little mean! |
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| Richard Horn | 21 Jun, 2005 |
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βeta: Down as 6a in the update, did this on sunday and thought very easy for 6a, but F4 is having a laugh. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Down as 6a in the update, did this on sunday and thought very easy for 6a, but F4 is having a laugh. |
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Route of Interest
Xavier's Wall
Grade: 6a ***
(Coastguard South)