19m.

Rockfax Description
The big corner has a hard bouldery start and a superb, pumpy finish. The first bolt is a krab-snapper so use a long sling. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 29/Apr/1994.

Ticklists

The Cuttings Sport Climbing Apprenticeship , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Classic Portland 7as (2* +) , Nat's Summer 2016 Ticklist , Portland , Portland 7a/+

Feedback

User Date Notes
tosrn 3 Mar Show βeta
βeta: Finally managed to get the boulder problem at the start (pre-clipped up to 2nd draw to avoid smashing into my belayer). Then managed to climb up to the roof. Roof was soaking wet, chickened out and clip sticked the last few bolts. Good holds (even wet), but hard to find. Should go but need good mental game...! Dislodged a fist sized flake from the left side of the roof, so be careful
Show beta
βeta: Finally managed to get the boulder problem at the start (pre-clipped up to 2nd draw to avoid smashing into my belayer). Then managed to climb up to the roof. Roof was soaking wet, chickened out and clip sticked the last few bolts. Good holds (even wet), but hard to find. Should go but need good mental game...! Dislodged a fist sized flake from the left side of the roof, so be careful
anthony.crockett 15 Mar, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Beware of loose blocks (where birds nest used to be) out to right of first route, very loose.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Beware of loose blocks (where birds nest used to be) out to right of first route, very loose.
Jeff25 24 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: it is buckets at the end but just after the roof they become hard to find and not quite as 'buckety' as you'd like. Fell off this from these last moves whilst having the anchors right at eye level.... very annoying and very pumpy... good 7a.
Show beta
βeta: it is buckets at the end but just after the roof they become hard to find and not quite as 'buckety' as you'd like. Fell off this from these last moves whilst having the anchors right at eye level.... very annoying and very pumpy... good 7a.

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Voting
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 79
Votes cast 74
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Medusa Falls

Grade: 7a ***
(Blacknor South)

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