16m.
Rockfax Description
A great piece of climbing. The wide groove, mainly on its right-hand side. The start is a boulder problem at about f5+. © Rockfax
FA. Tim Dunsby 06/Oct/1991.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50 , West Country Climbs , Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012 , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Portland sub 6b , Portland , Portland Sendathon
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| salexc | 17 Jul, 2023 |
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βeta: Who did that boulder start, and then the top, and thought \"yeah that\'s about a 6b\"? Lunacy. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Who did that boulder start, and then the top, and thought "yeah that's about a 6b"? Lunacy. |
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| Rosi | 25 Jun, 2023 |
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βeta: 25/06/23 Take care: seagulls nesting in the cliff above - we only discovered this today when a fledgling fell past us. (It seemed remarkably ok once it had picked itself up after a minute or so. On the advice of a local vet we carefully popped it back close to the nest.) | βeta? | |
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βeta: 25/06/23 Take care: seagulls nesting in the cliff above - we only discovered this today when a fledgling fell past us. (It seemed remarkably ok once it had picked itself up after a minute or so. On the advice of a local vet we carefully popped it back close to the nest.) |
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| Big-Whipper | 2 Apr, 2021 |
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βeta: There is a hold just left of the first clip that is about to snap. Do not use it! | βeta? | |
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βeta: There is a hold just left of the first clip that is about to snap. Do not use it! |
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| earthkeptwarm | 23 Aug, 2020 |
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βeta: I think the 'v2 boulder' bit of the description might psyche people out a bit at the start. 'A hard start' would suffice. | βeta? | |
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βeta: I think the 'v2 boulder' bit of the description might psyche people out a bit at the start. 'A hard start' would suffice. |
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| Richard Horn | 25 Sep, 2006 |
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βeta: There are many 6a+'s better than this on portland - it is 1* max. | βeta? | |
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βeta: There are many 6a+'s better than this on portland - it is 1* max. |
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| Andy Hemsted | 24 Sep, 2006 |
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βeta: It was disgraceful that this gorgeous route was only given one star in the book! It not only deserves the extra star which it has now been awarded, but AT LEAST one more ... as long as you climb right up until your harness is level with the bolts! The start is definitely too hard for 6a+, but once past the first bolt and the ledge, the good moves just keep coming ... This is the best route of this grade that I've climbed in Britain, and as good as my favourite otherwise: Eleusis, on Rocher St Christophe, in France. | βeta? | |
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βeta: It was disgraceful that this gorgeous route was only given one star in the book! It not only deserves the extra star which it has now been awarded, but AT LEAST one more ... as long as you climb right up until your harness is level with the bolts! The start is definitely too hard for 6a+, but once past the first bolt and the ledge, the good moves just keep coming ... This is the best route of this grade that I've climbed in Britain, and as good as my favourite otherwise: Eleusis, on Rocher St Christophe, in France. |
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| airbournegrapefruit | 13 May, 2006 |
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βeta: i found the start of this easier than consomme. and the rest of the route has some nice interesting moves. | βeta? | |
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βeta: i found the start of this easier than consomme. and the rest of the route has some nice interesting moves. |
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| Chris(cface!) | 23 Oct, 2005 |
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βeta: I on-sighted this a few years ago. I didn't find the boulder problem start amazingly tricky! Must be all that Northumberland '6a'! Great route though. | βeta? | |
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βeta: I on-sighted this a few years ago. I didn't find the boulder problem start amazingly tricky! Must be all that Northumberland '6a'! Great route though. |
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| Max factor | 13 Jun, 2005 |
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βeta: pretty nails for 6a+ - but the main difficulties are low down and it is much steadier above the big ledge. Plenty of time to depump before the groove above, so maybe just merits the grade. | βeta? | |
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βeta: pretty nails for 6a+ - but the main difficulties are low down and it is much steadier above the big ledge. Plenty of time to depump before the groove above, so maybe just merits the grade. |
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| Richard Horn | 28 Jul, 2003 |
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βeta: Fell off on second attempt at the start before clipping the first bolt and hurt my foot on a rock. Quite a desperate start and much harder moves than the grade would suggest, possibly F6c which is what the V2 bouldering comment would suggest. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Fell off on second attempt at the start before clipping the first bolt and hurt my foot on a rock. Quite a desperate start and much harder moves than the grade would suggest, possibly F6c which is what the V2 bouldering comment would suggest. |
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Route of Interest
Ocean Drive
Grade: 6b ***
(Blacknor Far South)