Restricted Access

November 2017 update

Reports of climbers being told to leave by security staff from the quarry and stating that they will be removing the bolts form this venue. BMC are investigating.

The owners of the site (Cemex Ltd) have approached the BMC to advise that this crag is within and forms part of a larger site that is an active and working quarry. They are legally bound by the Quarries Regulations 1999 to ensure that they take appropriate steps to prevent public access to the site, and have requested the BMC to inform climbers that climbing is not allowed at this site. 

2020 update

Climbers have been heavily using this crag (especially during lockdown) with no issues. If approached by Cemtex Staff, please comply with their request if asked to leave and get in touch with your local access rep.

Rockfax Description
The route of the wall. Sustained and technical with a very difficult finish, first left then right, to reach the lower-off. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Start about 5m up the bank under the right side of a small bulge at 5m.
Climb easily to the bulge then strenously pull up and right to a long sloping edge. Climb the wall to the right of the 3rd bolt past a few shot holes to the large rising breakline. Pull into a groove then up to the top bulge which is climbed left then right back to a very balancy move to the belay.

Ticklists

Rockfax South Wales Top 50 , The must do 7's I haven't done b4 I'm to old , Rockfax South Wales Top 45 , Unfinished businesses

Feedback

User Date Notes
Pete Minaeian 14 Jul, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Pulled off at least 8 rocks on the lower section. Some pretty big. Midway jug before the tree stump moved and had a pretty big crack through it. Big block at the top also sounded very hollow. Nothing I pulled off seemed important. Still climbable. Just felt like abit of a choss fest.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Pulled off at least 8 rocks on the lower section. Some pretty big. Midway jug before the tree stump moved and had a pretty big crack through it. Big block at the top also sounded very hollow. Nothing I pulled off seemed important. Still climbable. Just felt like abit of a choss fest.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Taff's Well West

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Voting
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
Votes cast 12
Votes cast 14
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
DNF
Repeated
Not Set
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