Climbs 122
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 380m a.s.l
Faces SW
All alone on the moors © victim of mathematics
Crag features
Bouldering mats have changed the nature of climbing here though lack of traffic means the routes and boulders are often super scrittly. Nevertheless, the crag is well worth a visit and offers many strong lines. The grades can be Barleyesque (tough) and the remote location makes it sensible to clean some of the more rounded finishes. Come on a good day, bring a stiff brush and savour the wildness.
Approach notes
Sensitive Access: The crag is on 'Open Access' land, therefore climbers have a statutory right of access. However, the area is a designated ground nesting bird protection area and it is requested that people don't stay off tracks from April to the summer months. Strictly no dogs and check other restrictions on the Natural England website before planning a visit.
The bridal way track has significant traffic control bumps and is unsuitable for cars that do not have a high clearance. Best to not upset the estate and walk in. There is no clear path to the crag but, from the shooting hut, an approach via the Jenny Twigg pinnacles and on to a fence leading down to the crag is the shortest and dryest approach.
No Access Issues
The area can be closed for a maximum of 28 days per year for shooting, and any closure must be correctly notified (usually at the main access point) and managed by the landowner. If approached by someone representing the estate (unlikely these days as most seem very friendly), state you have a statutory right of access under the CRoW Act, find out the individuals name, and then report the incident to the BMC.
Seasonal Restrictions
Reason: Nesting Birds
The landowner has been granted a dog restriction on the Open Access land at Longside Moor for grouse breeding - check Natural England site (link below).
| Access - The green guidebook suggested walking down past the eight - or - so shooting lodges and turning left. This was very boggy. I then walked back directly to the shooting lodge passing Jenny Twig on my left. This seemed easier. Both options are pretty wild with minimal or no trails to follow but going direct was slightly better. chrishedgehog - 10/Jun/23 |
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| Those shooting tracks are down on the Council's books as unclassified roads, and the sign just says "unsuitable" for cars, as opposed to the proper sign banning cars going over Pock Stones Moor.
I think you'd be fine to take a car there (providing you can clear the odd bump where there's a drainage ditch) but at the risk of pissing off the Estate. Before the CRoW Act came in they did ban climbing at the crag as soon as they found out it was going on, so they clearly aren't sold on the idea anyway. They can make things difficult if they want to. Will Hunt - 16/Aug/15 |
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| Nice crag, deserves more traffic. Is parking just past the Shooting Lodge allowed? MTL - 09/Aug/15 |
Climbs at this crag
| Name | Grade | Stars | Type | Logs | Partner Ascents |
|---|
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.
Moderators Updates to this page are checked by a UKC volunteer Paul Clarke