The route can be traversed in both directions; this description traverses east to west Starting at Turtagrø.
1. Helgedalen (Turtagrø hotel) to Gjertvassbreen (Gjertvasskaret): First following a tractor road, then steep ridge east of Styggedalasbreen to Gjertvassbreen. Steep crevassed snow/ice slope to the col (threatened by serac and avalanche on occasion). If you wish to ascend Gjertvasstind from Gjertvasskaret, this takes between 2-3 hours depending on conditions. Normally it is to first traverse out on the NW face until it is possible to climb over a bergshrund and afterwards on steep snow (40 degrees) for 80 vertical meters. It is also possible to climb this top via the east ridge, which is less technically demanding. However, it is a much longer approach from Turtagrø or Skogadalsbøen DNT hut, and you still need to descend to Gjertvasskaret.
2. Gjertvasskaret to Styggedalstind East: Steep snow and scrambling. Grade 2/3. It’s possible to take the steep snow north of the ridge in the beginning.
3. Styggedalstind East to Styggedalstind West. Airy ridge. Occasional cheeky up and down sections. Grade 2/3.
4. Styggedalstind West to Sentratind: Scrambling down the west ridge until a defined blocky runnel on the south side can be descended (grade2/3 in the runnel) to snow slopes. Traverse the snow slopes back on to the ridge, going over a flattish knob halfway along (possible bivi spot) and continuing along a fine airy arête until it suddenly becomes much steeper. This defines the start of the climbing section which is normally undertaken in 4 pitches.
Pitch 1) grade 4, 25m. A large leaning block defines the start of the climb. Traverse 10m on the north side on an airy ledge until it´s is possible to climb up a groove to a flattening of the ridge at 10m. Traverse the flat section and continue up a groove passing through a short chimney to a 20m wide ledge. It might be possible to climb the first section direct at a slightly harder grade.
Pitch 2) grade 3, 30m. After transiting the 20m ledge, the next pitch starts at a defined steepening of the ridge. Climb the right-hand side of the ridge on good solid flakes until the ridge flattens again.
Pitch 3) grade 3, 30m. Continue up the ridge to a ledge on the south side below some natural steps.
Pitch 4) grade 3, 30m. Climb the natural steps on the south side until it´s is possible to traverse back to the ridge and then to the top.
This section of climbing will be hard under snowy/icy conditions.
5. Sentraltind to Vetle Skagastølstind: 1 x rappel from Sentraltind to the col between Vetle Skagastølstind (30m, grade 4 if you climb it) snow traversing and scrambling. Bivi spots and possible water. A 60m rope will just touch down on the abseil.
From Vetle Skagastølstind continue along the Skagastølstind traverse. Described in another section.
1. Helgedalen (Turtagrø hotel) to Gjertvassbreen (Gjertvasskaret): First following a tractor road, then steep ridge east of Styggedalasbreen to Gjertvassbreen. Steep crevassed snow/ice slope to the col (threatened by serac and avalanche on occasion). If you wish to ascend Gjertvasstind from Gjertvasskaret, this takes between 2-3 hours depending on conditions. Normally it is to first traverse out on the NW face until it is possible to climb over a bergshrund and afterwards on steep snow (40 degrees) for 80 vertical meters. It is also possible to climb this top via the east ridge, which is less technically demanding. However, it is a much longer approach from Turtagrø or Skogadalsbøen DNT hut, and you still need to descend to Gjertvasskaret.
2. Gjertvasskaret to Styggedalstind East: Steep snow and scrambling. Grade 2/3. It’s possible to take the steep snow north of the ridge in the beginning.
3. Styggedalstind East to Styggedalstind West. Airy ridge. Occasional cheeky up and down sections. Grade 2/3.
4. Styggedalstind West to Sentratind: Scrambling down the west ridge until a defined blocky runnel on the south side can be descended (grade2/3 in the runnel) to snow slopes. Traverse the snow slopes back on to the ridge, going over a flattish knob halfway along (possible bivi spot) and continuing along a fine airy arête until it suddenly becomes much steeper. This defines the start of the climbing section which is normally undertaken in 4 pitches.
Pitch 1) grade 4, 25m. A large leaning block defines the start of the climb. Traverse 10m on the north side on an airy ledge until it´s is possible to climb up a groove to a flattening of the ridge at 10m. Traverse the flat section and continue up a groove passing through a short chimney to a 20m wide ledge. It might be possible to climb the first section direct at a slightly harder grade.
Pitch 2) grade 3, 30m. After transiting the 20m ledge, the next pitch starts at a defined steepening of the ridge. Climb the right-hand side of the ridge on good solid flakes until the ridge flattens again.
Pitch 3) grade 3, 30m. Continue up the ridge to a ledge on the south side below some natural steps.
Pitch 4) grade 3, 30m. Climb the natural steps on the south side until it´s is possible to traverse back to the ridge and then to the top.
This section of climbing will be hard under snowy/icy conditions.
5. Sentraltind to Vetle Skagastølstind: 1 x rappel from Sentraltind to the col between Vetle Skagastølstind (30m, grade 4 if you climb it) snow traversing and scrambling. Bivi spots and possible water. A 60m rope will just touch down on the abseil.
From Vetle Skagastølstind continue along the Skagastølstind traverse. Described in another section.
Ticklists
Ridge Traverses in Jotunheimen
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Jamie Simpson - Alpine Dragons | 16 Aug, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: climbed over two days in near perfect condition. Firm snow up to Gjertvasskadet and snow along ost of the ridge. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: climbed over two days in near perfect condition. Firm snow up to Gjertvasskadet and snow along ost of the ridge. |
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Route of Interest
Sørryggen / South Ridge
Grade: n3 ***
(Uranostind)