20m.

Rockfax Description
One of the best routes at Stoney, with a great variety of bold and strenuous moves, and enough gear to make it safe - even if it doesn't feel like it. Save it for the lead instead of top-roping it. Follow the elegant groove to the roof, then move left and climb the tricky wall to a break (pumpy-to-place gear and scary position). Step right and stand in the break (baffling for some) then climb the still awkward upper wall. Wonderful. © Rockfax

FA. Geoff Birtles 1979.

Ticklists

Great Wall Climbs of the UK , 100 best limestone climbs in Britain , Peak Rock/10/White Life , Peak Rock/13/The Limestone Revolution , Definitive *** Peak Lime , The Festival Of Shite , Best Before 2025

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User Date Notes
Stoney Boy 4 Dec, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Harder than Right wall imo
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Harder than Right wall imo
Graham Hoey 24 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Beta Alert!!! Bomber RP2 left of the jug in the middle of the 'runout'.
Show beta
βeta: Beta Alert!!! Bomber RP2 left of the jug in the middle of the 'runout'.
Graham Hoey 19 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Certainly a grade harder than Cabbage Crack, possibly (dare I suggest) worth low end E5?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Certainly a grade harder than Cabbage Crack, possibly (dare I suggest) worth low end E5?
John Kirk 4 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Did 2nds or 3rd ascent of this as training for Right Wall and found RW a path in comparison.
βeta?
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βeta: Did 2nds or 3rd ascent of this as training for Right Wall and found RW a path in comparison.
Ian Milward 26 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Solid E4 with a bold blast followed by a safe, trick move. Solid gear if you look and don't panic (easily said when you've done it many times!)As it says, wonderful.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Solid E4 with a bold blast followed by a safe, trick move. Solid gear if you look and don't panic (easily said when you've done it many times!)As it says, wonderful.
UKB Shark 17 May, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Too reliant on one small gear placement as I recall for E4
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Too reliant on one small gear placement as I recall for E4

Logged Ascents

119 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Stoney Middleton

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Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 30
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 32
Votes cast 27
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Fern Hill Indirect

Grade: E4 6a ***
(Cratcliffe Tor)

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