Restricted Access
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
There may be a temporary restriction on the route 'Hercules' due to nesting chough - look for on site signs and avoid this route if chough activity around the hole in the brown pillar adjacent to the first half of the route.
Rockfax Description
A fine climb up the tall corner above a small cave, where the ledge below the cliff drops down. Climb the corner then move back left and make a grovelling pull onto a ledge (possible belay). Move up and right into the higher corner and climb this to the top. © Rockfax
FA. J.Williams, M.Harber 12/Aug/1978.
Ticklists
Ultimate HVS ticklist , Pembroke VDiff-HVS , Pembs Classics
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| mikkistorey | 27 Aug, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Rockfax shows the route on the right, going up the corner and crack, so I went that way. Good wires on the left, felt avout hvs. The old climbers club guide describes climbing the shallow groove on the left and many people at the crag claimed that to be tje correct way. Looks easier, but I haven't tried it. Something to go back for. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Rockfax shows the route on the right, going up the corner and crack, so I went that way. Good wires on the left, felt avout hvs. The old climbers club guide describes climbing the shallow groove on the left and many people at the crag claimed that to be tje correct way. Looks easier, but I haven't tried it. Something to go back for. |
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| Fiend | 27 Jun, 2006 |
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βeta: A nice route up the attractively "switching" groovelines. The swing leftwards detracts a bit from this line but otherwise the climbing is good. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: A nice route up the attractively "switching" groovelines. The swing leftwards detracts a bit from this line but otherwise the climbing is good. |
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| Kyuzo | 26 Oct, 2005 |
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βeta: I found this awkward to climb and hard to protect (at least the first half) compared to Manzoku. My interpretation of the guidebook was that you're meant to follow the corner rather than the arete (as someone else commented above). | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I found this awkward to climb and hard to protect (at least the first half) compared to Manzoku. My interpretation of the guidebook was that you're meant to follow the corner rather than the arete (as someone else commented above). |
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| geoffgo21 | 13 Oct, 2005 |
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βeta: Only VS | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Only VS |
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| drcorbasisgod | 9 Oct, 2005 |
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βeta: I think I started out wrong but may have found a route more consistent with the grade - instead of ambling up the arete, walk round to the right and climb the big corner. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I think I started out wrong but may have found a route more consistent with the grade - instead of ambling up the arete, walk round to the right and climb the big corner. |
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| John Alcock | 1 Sep, 2005 |
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βeta: Well protected with two awkward moves. If you grab the ledge at half height, it's much easier to mantle onto it if you keep moving left. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Well protected with two awkward moves. If you grab the ledge at half height, it's much easier to mantle onto it if you keep moving left. |
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| chris j | 11 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: Fun :o) | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Fun :o) |
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| Albie | 3 May, 2005 |
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βeta: First HVS of the season and I only attempted it because there was a queue on Limbo [VS]. Nice easy start with plenty of excitement on the crux. I was amazed at how many juggy handholds there were and plenty of gear placements - totally safe. Though I finally ran out of puff on the sustained upper section and was forced to rest on my gear. Though having rested I could appreciate the the overhanging finnish with the big handholds. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: First HVS of the season and I only attempted it because there was a queue on Limbo [VS]. Nice easy start with plenty of excitement on the crux. I was amazed at how many juggy handholds there were and plenty of gear placements - totally safe. Though I finally ran out of puff on the sustained upper section and was forced to rest on my gear. Though having rested I could appreciate the the overhanging finnish with the big handholds. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stennis Head
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Bohemian Bubblebath
Grade: HVS 4c ***
(Penally East)