Rockfax Description
A fine open classic and high in the grade. Climb direct (loose block) or from the right to a huge flake, move up to some big rounded pockets then traverse right to a final steep crack. © Rockfax
FA. Tony Howard 1958.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List , Moorland Grit - The Essential Selection (Over The Moors) , Over the Moors 3 Star Magical Mystery Tour , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| paulinepavlova | 8 Jul, 2023 |
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βeta: Topout is dirty and vegetated | βeta? | |
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βeta: Topout is dirty and vegetated |
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| shaun walby | 28 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: Second what craig has said......i felt my second drop at the start, the block comes out on you like a draw opening, he pushed it back and fell onto the ropes. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Second what craig has said......i felt my second drop at the start, the block comes out on you like a draw opening, he pushed it back and fell onto the ropes. |
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| craig h | 1 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: There is a large, loose horizontal flake at the start of the route. Avoid pulling outwards on it or placing gear behind it. It would hurt your toes if it was to drop. | βeta? | |
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βeta: There is a large, loose horizontal flake at the start of the route. Avoid pulling outwards on it or placing gear behind it. It would hurt your toes if it was to drop. |
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| shaun walby | 12 Jun, 2005 |
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βeta: Very enjoyable 4b climbing all the way, superb position with good gear...excellent. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Very enjoyable 4b climbing all the way, superb position with good gear...excellent. |
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| Simon Caldwell | 8 Jun, 2004 |
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βeta: I traversed with my hands at that level and reckon it's definitely 4c. My partner, seconding, did it as a foot traverse and it's more like 5a/b, but you'd have excellent gear at your feet so a fall shouldn't be too serious even then. | βeta? | |
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βeta: I traversed with my hands at that level and reckon it's definitely 4c. My partner, seconding, did it as a foot traverse and it's more like 5a/b, but you'd have excellent gear at your feet so a fall shouldn't be too serious even then. |
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| craig h | 8 Jun, 2004 |
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βeta: The climb is VS 4b, but I think there is some confusion on which level to traverse after reaching the pockets. The line in the rockfax topo looks to be too high, the wall should be traversed with your hands at the same level as the pockets, there has been some accidents with people traversing at a higher level – feet level with the pockets. Nice climbing worth doing on a visit. | βeta? | |
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βeta: The climb is VS 4b, but I think there is some confusion on which level to traverse after reaching the pockets. The line in the rockfax topo looks to be too high, the wall should be traversed with your hands at the same level as the pockets, there has been some accidents with people traversing at a higher level – feet level with the pockets. Nice climbing worth doing on a visit. |
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| Duncan I | 28 May, 2004 |
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βeta: There's no particular move that's worth 4c but it's sustained at 4b from when you cut loose off the arete. Keep your eyes open and just keep telling yourself that the holds will appear! | βeta? | |
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βeta: There's no particular move that's worth 4c but it's sustained at 4b from when you cut loose off the arete. Keep your eyes open and just keep telling yourself that the holds will appear! |
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| Simon Caldwell | 26 Apr, 2004 |
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βeta: Could do with a 'fluttery heart' symbol, protection is well below your feet for the crux. I thought this high in the grade for VS 4c, no idea where the '4b' comes from. An excellent route, varied and sustained. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Could do with a 'fluttery heart' symbol, protection is well below your feet for the crux. I thought this high in the grade for VS 4c, no idea where the '4b' comes from. An excellent route, varied and sustained. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Standing Stones
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Wedgewood Crack
Grade: VS 4c ***
(The Ravenstones)