Rockfax Description
An excellent route which is mild but bold. Climb the centre of the face (creaky) to a rest out left. An odd sideways nut protects the moves up and right to the base of the superb upper flake. © Rockfax
FA. Peter Biven 1956.
Ticklists
Stanage: My Favourite Five , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Work Hard, Play Hard , Ultimate E2 ticklist , 50 of the Best , Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50 , Memorable Climbs , Rockfax Peak Gritstone East (2001) Top 50 , Extreme 2018 , Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions , Peaks hard stuff , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , MUMC 2023 Fundraiser Routes
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| bclifton | 11 Apr |
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βeta: The flake is now really very lose, flexes a lot with just a light pull. | βeta? | |
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βeta: The flake is now really very lose, flexes a lot with just a light pull. |
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| alf1345 | 21 Aug, 2023 |
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βeta: Well where do I start, began by bag testing the ground fall with myself being the bag, seems to be ok but would not recommend it, hopped straight back on 5 seconds later tho cos what could go wrong, and did it. it's a lovely route even with the questionable nuts, once you are on the flake tho its plain sailing, and before you know it you're at the top | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Well where do I start, began by bag testing the ground fall with myself being the bag, seems to be ok but would not recommend it, hopped straight back on 5 seconds later tho cos what could go wrong, and did it. it's a lovely route even with the questionable nuts, once you are on the flake tho its plain sailing, and before you know it you're at the top |
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| benjied | 20 Jul, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Having not had any beta before setting off, didn’t take enough big wires for that sideways nut to be on, having also skipped gear in the flake cos I didn’t want to damage it the essentially solo moves to reach the jugs felt pretty e2, but if it is good probs easier than a lot of stanage e1s. Looks very worn though. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Having not had any beta before setting off, didn’t take enough big wires for that sideways nut to be on, having also skipped gear in the flake cos I didn’t want to damage it the essentially solo moves to reach the jugs felt pretty e2, but if it is good probs easier than a lot of stanage e1s. Looks very worn though. |
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| Richard 261 | 2 Sep, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: Only my second E2. I was glad someone lent me Wallnuts for the crux, cos my nuts wouldn't have fitted. Having said that, I put a no4 Friend in the break out to the left which was nice. The flake system at the top is real fun. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Only my second E2. I was glad someone lent me Wallnuts for the crux, cos my nuts wouldn't have fitted. Having said that, I put a no4 Friend in the break out to the left which was nice. The flake system at the top is real fun. |
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| Jon Greengrass | 26 Sep, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: seconded barefoot in the lovely evening warmth, lovely climbing. It does seem soft touch for E2 with all the gear that can be fiddled behind the rattly flakes, but has it ever been tested, i certainly wouldn't fancy falling off just before I got that sideways nut in at about half height. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: seconded barefoot in the lovely evening warmth, lovely climbing. It does seem soft touch for E2 with all the gear that can be fiddled behind the rattly flakes, but has it ever been tested, i certainly wouldn't fancy falling off just before I got that sideways nut in at about half height. |
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| Alex Mason | 18 Sep, 2005 |
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βeta: the rock at the crux seems bomber but i assure u it isnt any kind of outward put and that things outta there | βeta? | |
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βeta: the rock at the crux seems bomber but i assure u it isnt any kind of outward put and that things outta there |
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| Ropeboy | 23 May, 2005 |
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βeta: I have to agree, very soft touch E2. | βeta? | |
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βeta: I have to agree, very soft touch E2. |
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| chris sm | 18 May, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: I didn't really understand the description - the moves to the slot are only just above the gear and about 5a. The move above the slot is about 5b but the gear (wallnut 8 & 10) is absolutely bomber. This is really soft for E2 - probably the easiest I've done. Still it's a great route. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I didn't really understand the description - the moves to the slot are only just above the gear and about 5a. The move above the slot is about 5b but the gear (wallnut 8 & 10) is absolutely bomber. This is really soft for E2 - probably the easiest I've done. Still it's a great route. |
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| Tyler | 24 Oct, 2003 |
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βeta: Very over rated route. One scary 5b move between breaks and the rest VS, hardly classic | βeta? | |
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βeta: Very over rated route. One scary 5b move between breaks and the rest VS, hardly classic |
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| The Pylon King | 6 May, 2003 |
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βeta: Definately take some large WALNUTS for the crux! Great route and much better than the HVS. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Definately take some large WALNUTS for the crux! Great route and much better than the HVS. |
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| Nick Smith - Climbers | 23 Apr, 2002 |
Show βeta
βeta: My first onsight E2 :-) Lovely climbing - not pumpy at all, but pretty scary. I found a no.9 nut useful for the crux moves, but I didn't have much confidence in it holding fall ;-/ YMMV. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: My first onsight E2 :-) Lovely climbing - not pumpy at all, but pretty scary. I found a no.9 nut useful for the crux moves, but I didn't have much confidence in it holding fall ;-/ YMMV. |
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The Dangler
Grade: E2 5c ***
(Stanage Popular)