10m.

Rockfax Description
The thin crack in the left-hand side-wall of the gully has some good moves where you could do with knowing how to jam. Big cams can help and hinder. © Rockfax

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , Stanage Routes - Epic Crackathon

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User Date Notes
mountainremedy 7 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Miles harder than Amazon Crack and Mutiny Crack at Burbage! Harder than a lot of VS 4cs in the peak.
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βeta: Miles harder than Amazon Crack and Mutiny Crack at Burbage! Harder than a lot of VS 4cs in the peak.
JHiley 27 Jan, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: HS 4b is fine. Nowhere near as hard as Amazon crack or Mutiny crack at Burbage.
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βeta: HS 4b is fine. Nowhere near as hard as Amazon crack or Mutiny crack at Burbage.
Fidget 26 Mar, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Really enjoyed this. One of those routes it's so obvious what you have to do and where the gear is you can really enjoy it. The top niche was a bit damp this weekend, so I jammed both shoulders in to prevent me slipping - which was quite painful and made it harder to top out!
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βeta: Really enjoyed this. One of those routes it's so obvious what you have to do and where the gear is you can really enjoy it. The top niche was a bit damp this weekend, so I jammed both shoulders in to prevent me slipping - which was quite painful and made it harder to top out!
John Parkin 25 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Led this as one to finish off the evening last week and couldn't believe the grade. Though short it is at least VS 4c (possibly even 5a). Like someone above, I laybacked the upper wider section after getting a good friend in the back of it. John Parkin
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βeta: Led this as one to finish off the evening last week and couldn't believe the grade. Though short it is at least VS 4c (possibly even 5a). Like someone above, I laybacked the upper wider section after getting a good friend in the back of it. John Parkin
Tom Randall - Lattice Training 6 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: What a massive sandbag at HS. It's an excellent route though and the jamming is really good quality straight in.
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βeta: What a massive sandbag at HS. It's an excellent route though and the jamming is really good quality straight in.
Nutkey 9 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Looked nice, but I can't really jam that well. Failed to get established, and backed off.
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βeta: Looked nice, but I can't really jam that well. Failed to get established, and backed off.
Simon Caldwell 17 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Definitely VS 4c, and high in the grade at that. And Steve - 'you must jam' - not true, my partner laybacked it!
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βeta: Definitely VS 4c, and high in the grade at that. And Steve - 'you must jam' - not true, my partner laybacked it!
Toby Dunn 1 Aug, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: blatantly VS, and not an easy one either.
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βeta: blatantly VS, and not an easy one either.
Crammy 24 Jul, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Thought I was a competent HS leader and reasonable jammer before I tried this. If this is HS 4b I'm off to reappraise my status.
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βeta: Thought I was a competent HS leader and reasonable jammer before I tried this. If this is HS 4b I'm off to reappraise my status.
Dan_S 15 Jun, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: New to leading HS, and wish I'd read this before I had a go at the route! Flipping hard!
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βeta: New to leading HS, and wish I'd read this before I had a go at the route! Flipping hard!
Nick Smith - Climbers 14 Jun, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Nice jamming route, but a cruel sandbag at only HS 4b (and probably HVS 5b if you can't jam!)
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βeta: Nice jamming route, but a cruel sandbag at only HS 4b (and probably HVS 5b if you can't jam!)
helix 27 May, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: surely this is harder than HS 4b. as i bumped into Mr Craggs half an hour after doing it, i told him as much!
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βeta: surely this is harder than HS 4b. as i bumped into Mr Craggs half an hour after doing it, i told him as much!

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 73
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 71
Votes cast 54
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Inaccessible Crack

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Stanage North)

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