Restricted Access

To the left of Stackpole Grooves. the Routes Sea Eagle to Shy Talk City have gone as well as the top pitch of The Hawk.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction covers the W Face, S Face (inc. Stackpole Point, Cracks Wall, Leaning Tower and Promontory), E Face (inc. Main Face and White Pillar) and from The Gilt Edge/Mussel Up to Poisoned Love and is normally marked by red cliff top markers.

 

 

28m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A good direct version of this route which is one of the few mid-grade routes here.
1) 5a, 15m. Climb the lower corner, then the steep groove, using the short slab on the left to gain the belay ledge above.
2) 5a, 15m. Climb the upper corner all the to the top. © Rockfax

FA. J.Perrin, C.Mortlock 18/Dec/1968.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 15 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: One of the few routes on this was which hasn’t been affected by rockfall
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: One of the few routes on this was which hasn’t been affected by rockfall

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Stackpole Head

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 6
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 5
Votes cast 7
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Onsighted
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Heart of Darkness

Grade: HVS 4c ***
(Mowing Word)

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