Restricted Access

Update: June 2023 - there is a Rock Pipit nesting at the base of the crack on 'Vice is Nice'. Please take care in this area to minimise disturbance - you can climb the route but avoid placing protection or jamming in this part of the crack.  The nest is obvious and can be avoided with a bit of care.  The restriction on the D-Day area has been lifted for the 2023 season as of 3rd July.

Beware of unstable rock in the following sections:

Below Munchies - rock fall from about 2014

John Wayne/Charisma - Loose rock in first 6m

Test Case - the base of the right side of the big flake has fallen off but following the left side of flake is fine

D-Day - large loose blocks directly above the mid height Belay 

April 2021 - Space Cadet - be aware that some blocks have fallen out of the steep section above the ledge. - it's been climbed since at the same grade but might have wobbly holds!

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

Choughs nesting on St Govan's Head and a seasonal restriction (1st March - 1st Aug.) now applies for the routes "Draught Dodger" to"  D-Day" inclusive. Climbers can still walk below these routes to access routes beyond the restricted area but please do not linger below this section. (See signs at abseil points)    RESTRICTION LIFTED JULY 3rd 2023 

Further right, the St. Govan's Head seasonal sea-bird climbing restriction (1st Mar - 1st Aug) continues to apply between Safety in Numbers and Aquarius/Zodiac . 

 

 

 

 

42m.

Rockfax Description
A brilliant direct route up the wall. Climb the lower wall to the ledge. Move up and right towards a niche in the roof. Swing about on the huge holds and wave to your mates, then realise that the jugs disappear at the top of the niche and start to panic a bit. Climb up to another roof, pass it on its right then move back left into the awkward finishing corner. © Rockfax

FA. R.Harrison, D.Carter 17/Apr/1981.

Ticklists

Ultimate E3 ticklist , The Best of Pembroke , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Becky's ticklist , E is for Easy... Right? , Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5 , The Post-Lockdown Vanventure Ticklist , Pembs '21 , Cianchi's Hit List

Feedback

User Date Notes
Dave-Westlake 25 Apr, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Looks like a big chunk has come off at the start of the initial steep section, leaving a muddy patch. The move to get established here is by far the crux of the route now.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Looks like a big chunk has come off at the start of the initial steep section, leaving a muddy patch. The move to get established here is by far the crux of the route now.
Adam Long 12 Oct, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Two large loose blocks removed from start of roof section. Remainder seems solid but may be more to come off yet.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Two large loose blocks removed from start of roof section. Remainder seems solid but may be more to come off yet.
Stanners 27 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Medium block soon to be pulled off above the ledge and has serious trauma/death potential for belayer. Caution required.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Medium block soon to be pulled off above the ledge and has serious trauma/death potential for belayer. Caution required.
stevenboxwell 12 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: A couple of large chunks of rock came of this climb just above the ledge. Not sure if it has changed the grade but be careful of other rock that may now be loosened
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A couple of large chunks of rock came of this climb just above the ledge. Not sure if it has changed the grade but be careful of other rock that may now be loosened
NuclearNev 12 Sep, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: An easy E3 if you have good power/weight ratio.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: An easy E3 if you have good power/weight ratio.
a_radiohead_fan 9 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: lovely juggy climbing then a final groove/ corner which is well airy scarey bridging. excellent.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: lovely juggy climbing then a final groove/ corner which is well airy scarey bridging. excellent.
Alun 23 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Despite not having any particularly difficult moves, it does keeps coming at you. Keep some oomph reserved for the last corner, which is more awkward than it looks. Plenty of rests to be had while turning the lower overhang too, if you use your loaf!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Despite not having any particularly difficult moves, it does keeps coming at you. Keep some oomph reserved for the last corner, which is more awkward than it looks. Plenty of rests to be had while turning the lower overhang too, if you use your loaf!
GDes 31 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: desperate in the morning when it's still greasy! wait til the sun gets on it. great climb though
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: desperate in the morning when it's still greasy! wait til the sun gets on it. great climb though
John Alcock 25 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Many people's first Pembroke E3. Spectacular but safe. Easier in the afternoon when the crag dries out.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Many people's first Pembroke E3. Spectacular but safe. Easier in the afternoon when the crag dries out.

Logged Ascents

562 users have logged this

Guidebooks for St. Govan's Head

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 118 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 80
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 77
Votes cast 73
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Deep Throat

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Triple Overhang Buttress)

Loading Notifications...