Restricted Access

Update: June 2023 - there is a Rock Pipit nesting at the base of the crack on 'Vice is Nice'. Please take care in this area to minimise disturbance - you can climb the route but avoid placing protection or jamming in this part of the crack.  The nest is obvious and can be avoided with a bit of care.  The restriction on the D-Day area has been lifted for the 2023 season as of 3rd July.

Beware of unstable rock in the following sections:

Below Munchies - rock fall from about 2014

John Wayne/Charisma - Loose rock in first 6m

Test Case - the base of the right side of the big flake has fallen off but following the left side of flake is fine

D-Day - large loose blocks directly above the mid height Belay 

April 2021 - Space Cadet - be aware that some blocks have fallen out of the steep section above the ledge. - it's been climbed since at the same grade but might have wobbly holds!

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

Choughs nesting on St Govan's Head and a seasonal restriction (1st March - 1st Aug.) now applies for the routes "Draught Dodger" to"  D-Day" inclusive. Climbers can still walk below these routes to access routes beyond the restricted area but please do not linger below this section. (See signs at abseil points)    RESTRICTION LIFTED JULY 3rd 2023 

Further right, the St. Govan's Head seasonal sea-bird climbing restriction (1st Mar - 1st Aug) continues to apply between Safety in Numbers and Aquarius/Zodiac . 

 

 

 

 

33m.

Rockfax Description
A steep and taxing pumper. From the ramp on Charisma, follow a crack up and left to a small roof (old peg - other gear available). Pull over this into another crack and continue past a thread to the top. © Rockfax

FA. G.Gibson 04/Jul/1985.

Ticklists

Trad climbs for sport climbers , Caff's 100 Ace E5s , Ultimate E5 ticklist , Bill's 2016 Sweepstake 20 , The Best of Pembroke , Theo's Pembroke ticklist , Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5

Feedback

User Date Notes
James Oswald 9 Apr, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Awful loose rock at the start. The climbing is easy on the initial wall but not fun. A size 4 camalot goes in the initial break really well - worth pre placing and clipping if you don\'t like the look of the start.
Show beta
βeta: Awful loose rock at the start. The climbing is easy on the initial wall but not fun. A size 4 camalot goes in the initial break really well - worth pre placing and clipping if you don't like the look of the start.
Stanners 19 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: The Easy start is hollow and about to collapse. Take care.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The Easy start is hollow and about to collapse. Take care.
Steve Crowe 6 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: The Easy start is hollow and about to collapse. Take care.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The Easy start is hollow and about to collapse. Take care.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for St. Govan's Head

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High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 32
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 32
Votes cast 30
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Vampire

Grade: E5 6b ***
(Battleship Buttress)

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