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The rock at Shorncliffe is generally sound, but there are some areas of more questionable rock which need to be treated with caution - in particular at the top of the crag where the last few metres can be more broken. Placing an extra piece of gear or two in solid rock before topping out is worth considering.

Descent for all routes is by abseil from trees at the top of the routes. These have been fitted with rope slings and abseil rings to prevent damage to the trees so please use them, but don't forget to check the anchors (both the strength of the tree and the quality of the rope and ring) before commiting to using them. It is also worth having some spare cord to replace any rope which is showing wear. A single 60m rope doubled over should allow you to reach the ground on all routes but double check first.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 April to 31 May

Reason: Nesting Birds

18m.

Rockfax Description
Small gear protects the technical wall moves on this popular pitch. Start up thin, well-scratched cracks to a small ledge at mid-height. Move left and take the thin wall to cracks and better holds that lead to the top. © Rockfax

M Ward, P Begley 15/Jul/1984.

Ticklists

Bristol 1st E1s , CUMC Ticklist , Shorn Cliff HVS and E1 *'d Routes , The post lockdown local list , 2021 , Top 25 E Grades in the southwest , Shorn cliff starred routes HVS-E1 according to guidebook , Wye Valley Starred E1-E3

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High E2
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High E1
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Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
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High 5c
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Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Motion Pictures

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Shorn Cliff)

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