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The rock at Shorncliffe is generally sound, but there are some areas of more questionable rock which need to be treated with caution - in particular at the top of the crag where the last few metres can be more broken. Placing an extra piece of gear or two in solid rock before topping out is worth considering.
Descent for all routes is by abseil from trees at the top of the routes. These have been fitted with rope slings and abseil rings to prevent damage to the trees so please use them, but don't forget to check the anchors (both the strength of the tree and the quality of the rope and ring) before commiting to using them. It is also worth having some spare cord to replace any rope which is showing wear. A single 60m rope doubled over should allow you to reach the ground on all routes but double check first.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 April to 31 May
Reason: Nesting Birds
Rockfax Description
Finish direct from the overlap. Perhaps improves on the original finish. Well protected and maybe a bit easier for the tall. © Rockfax
Ticklists
CUMC Ticklist , 2021 , Paul Dearden's classic rock climbs , Shorn cliff starred routes HVS-E1 according to guidebook , Wye Valley Starred E1-E3
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tituscrags | 7 Aug, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Save a small wire for the crux at the end, no 3 I think | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Save a small wire for the crux at the end, no 3 I think |
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| Michael Hellyer | 30 Aug, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: A high right foot was the key to a controlled static reach over the bulge. Left foot smears. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: A high right foot was the key to a controlled static reach over the bulge. Left foot smears. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Shorn Cliff
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Big Fly Direct
Grade: E1 5a ***
(Wintour's Leap)